This is also a cheap way to build the basic motor skills and understand how to cut into the wood by hand as you aren’t making anything large and using a lot of wood.

Supplies Needed to Carve a Chess Set

In order to carve a complete chess set shown below you will need the following tools and supplies:

• 24 small blocks of basswood or dowel (1″ x 1″ x 2″)
• 8 larger blocks of basswood or dowel (1″ x 1″ x4″)
• A 16″ x 16″ sheet of wood for the board
• A sharp wood carving knife
• A leather strop to keep the knife honed
• paints or stains to color the chess pieces

Carving Pawns

If you are new to whittling or wood carving, I would start by making all of the pawns first before moving on to carving the rest of the chess set. This way you have an easy and repetitive process to practice so you can become more comfortable with the knife and wood.

To make all the pawns for a chess board, you will need to make 16 pawns, which will require 16 blocks of wood cut to 1″x1″x2″ or 16 1″ diameter dowels cut to 2″ in length.

Step 1

• Start off by taking your 1″x1″x2″ block of wood and turning it into a dowel or cutting your dowel to 2″ in length
• Then draw on your lines with a pencil as shown on the left

Step 2

• Start carving from the bottom line upwards and ending at the second line from the bottom.
• For best results, carve at a 25 to 35 degree angle. If you cut too steep, the center will be too thin and brittle.

Step 3

• Starting from the middle line and the top line, cut towards the middle of the two lines as evenly as possible.

Step 4

• Turn the top portion of the carving into a sphere by first creating an octahedron and cutting off the corners.
• When you are done, finish with the color stain or paint of your choice and repeat until all pieces have been made.

Pawn Video Instructions

Carving Rooks

Once you have finished carving pawns and mastered working with the wood, it’s time to move on to carving the rooks. These are just as simple as the pawns and will be quick to make.

To make all the rooks for a chess board, you will need to make 4 rooks, which will require 4 blocks of wood cut to 1″x1″x2″ or 4 1″ diameter dowels cut to 2″ in length.

Step 1

• Start off by taking your 1″x1″x2″ block of wood and turning it into a dowel or cutting your dowel to 2″ in length
• Then draw on your lines with a pencil as shown on the left.

Step 2

• Start carving from the line second from the bottom downwards and ending at the bottom.
• Try not to go down past the line or the base of the piece will be too thin. You can always stop before the line if needed.
• For best results, carve at a 25 to 35 degree angle. If you cut too steep, the center will be too thin and brittle.

Step 3

• Repeat the process in step 2 but go upwards as shown in the picture to the left.

Step 4

• Round out the sharp edges on the top piece and if you wish, hollow out the top a little with a hook knife.
• When you are done, finish with the color stain or paint of your choice and repeat until all pieces have been made.

Rook Video Instructions

Carving Knights

Now that you have gotten use to making some of the simpler carvings it’s time to move on to something a little more complicated, making the knights. These will require some shaping of the wood to get a simple horse shape.

To make all the knights for a chess board, you will need to make 4 knights, which will require 4 blocks of wood cut to 1″x1″x2″.

Step 1

• Make a sweeping cut on two opposing sides from about 1/2″ from the bottom as shown in the left.

Step 2

• Turning the pice sideways, make a stop cut under the back of the horses mane (on the left side of the picture shown) and under the horses face (on the right side of the picture shown). These do not need to be exact but at least make them consistent.
• Then make basic shapes on the top of the head to outline the top of the horses face and the back of the head.
• Leave enough wood to work on the ears later.

Step 3

• Start rounding the bottom of the knight to about 1″ in diameter and start smoothing out the horses face to add features
• Draw a line about 1/8″ from the bottom and 1/4″ from the first line.

Step 4

• Before carving the base of the knight, finish the horses face. This can be as simple or as complex as you like. You can use the picture on the left for reference or use the video below to get the final features.
• Just like with the pawns and rooks, carve from the bottom line inwards to create a cone up to the second line.

Knight Video Instructions

Carving Bishops

Now At this point, we are going to start making the larger and more intricate pieces of the chess set. While they look complicated, they have many of the same cut patterns you already made on the previous pieces you just made.

To make all the bishops for a chess board, you will need to make 4 bishops, which will require 4 blocks of wood cut to 1″x1″x4″ or a 1″ dowel cut to 4″ in length.

Step 1

• Start off by taking your 1″x1″x4″ block of wood and turning it into a dowel or cutting your dowel to 4″ in length
• Then draw on your lines with a pencil as shown on the left.

Step 2

• Make your first cuts towards the halfway mark from the lines directly above and below.
• Then make cuts from the second to bottom line to the third line as shown to the left.

Step 3

• Then start making the bottom half of the rounded top as shown to the left and making a flat shelf for it to sit on.

Step 4

• Continue rounding the top to an egg shape but leave enough wood at the top to create the little hat at the top as shown to the left.
• Add any extra details as desired.

Bishop Video Instructions

Carving Kings and Queens

Finally, it’s time to make the Kings and Queens! These will start off similar to each other but will differ with the crowns. While they look complicated, they have many of the same cut patterns you already made on the previous pieces you just made.

To make all the Kings and Queens for a chess board, you will need to make 2 Kings and 2 Queens, which will require 4 blocks of wood cut to 1″x1″x4″ or a 1″ dowel cut to 4″ inches in length

King and Queen Prep Step 1

• Both King and Queen will start of the same but the crowns will be different.
• Start by rounding your 1x1x4 inch wood block or cutting a 1 inch dowel to 4 inches in length
• Add the lines as shown in the picture

King and Queen Prep Step 2

• Start making the bottom skirt from the first line to the second line shown in the picture

King and Queen Prep Step 3

• Create the second skirt from the 3rd line to the 4th line as shown in the picture
• Then from the 2nd line from the top, carve towards the 3rd line form the top as shown in the picture

King and Queen Prep Step 4

• Round out the center block as shown in the picture

Finishing the Queen

• Now lets start adding the details for the Queens. You will need 2 of these per board.
• Start at the top line and make a cone as shown in the picture. do not carve to a point, but a round circle at the top.

• Start adding small details like rings on the top and a little ball as shown in the picture

Finishing the King

• The King is pretty straight forward, start by drawing a line in the middle of the top cylinder that you haven’t carved yet and then one more line 1/4″ above it.
• Cut a cone pointing downwards to the next line as shown.
• Then carve in the style of crown you desire, see the video below for extra details for how I carved mine.

King and Queen Video Instructions

Making the Chess Board

All you need to make your own chess board is a flat piece of wood, some paint or stain, and if you want to get fancy, a v-gouge or knife.

The Ideal square size is about 2.25 inches, but if you are making one for fun, make the squares about twice the size of the chess piece diameter and you should be good!

The chess board needs to be an 8 x 8 layout to fit all the chess pieces properly.

Here is what you will need to make the dog:

• Sharp whittling knife
• 4″ x 1″ x 1″ block of wood
• Pencil
• Leather strop

If you want everything you will need in one kit to get started, I highly recommend this affordable set from BeaverCraft: https://amzn.to/3yDmJf7
The kit comes with everything you will need and is of much better quality than the cheap stuff you see everywhere else.

You can using a larger block of wood if you want to, but it will take longer to whittle.

Before starting, make sure your whittling knife is nice and sharp. It is always a good idea to hone your knife with your leather strop before starting to whittle. If you feel like your knife is starting to dull out while whittling, strop each side 10 to 20 times and continue.

Downloadable Template

Video Guide

Picture Reference

Follow the steps below to carve your own little fox!

– Step 1

Draw the fox template on to your 1 x 1 x 4 inch block of wood

– Step 2

Remove the sections below the lines on the right and left hand side. The left side will be the tail and the right will be the head.

– Step 3

Start to shape the back of the fox, this will help to refine the head and body. From here we will be working from the tail to the head.

– Step 4

Shape the tail and the butt of the fox

– Step 5

Smooth out the top of the body as well as shape the back of the head.

– Step 6

Remove the wood under the body as shown, but don’t separate the front two legs or the back two legs from each other just yet, that comes in step 9.

– Step 7

Roughly shape the front of the face, but don’t take off too much wood yet. This is just to start getting an idea for proportions.

– Step 8

After you get an idea for where the ears and nose will be, further refine them.

– Step 9

Finish shaping the face to the right proportions and then separate the legs. After this, smooth everything out and you are finished!

– Painting!

Painting your fox is really easy, I used watercolor for mine but you can also use acrylic paint. Start with the lighter colors first as the darker colors show through the lighter colors.

For the picture below, I used this water color set from Amazon with Chinese White, Orange, Burnt Sienna, and Flesh as highlights.

Generally, using mineral oil on wood carving projects and special food-grade mineral oil on kitchen cutting boards will seal, hydrate and protect it from drying out or cracking for years to come as long as you regularly apply the mineral oil. 

Keep reading on to discover more about mineral oil that can be used for wood carvings and food-grade mineral oil for kitchen cutting boards in the following sections. 

How to Apply Mineral Oil to Wood Carvings and Cutting Boards

When you have finally finished your wood carving project or if you have looked at your well-worn cutting board and wanted to do more to make them shine and last long, you probably have considered using mineral oil to restore these items. 

Mineral oil, in various forms, can be used to treat, hydrate, restore, seal, and protect your wood items from cracking and accelerated aging. You might be surprised to know that there are a few types of mineral oil on the market, and it DOES matter which one you use with each project or item! 

Continue reading to discover how to apply mineral oil, which mineral oil is best for cutting boards and what makes it different from basic mineral oil. 

Mineral Oil Use for Wood Carvings

You can find mineral oil that is used for basic wood carving projects at almost any hardware store, grocery store, online, or any place that sells house cleaning and wood finishing products.  What I personally use for all of my cutting boards and spoons is Bayes Food Grade Mineral Oil as it is safe for everyone to use and is super affordable. You can pick some up for yourself on Amazon here: https://amzn.to/3CDf4MO

Mineral oil can be applied to carvings in just a few easy steps. 

1. Sand your wood carving down and get rid of all rough edges
2. Clear off all wood dust
3. Pour mineral oil on a small section of a cloth or rag
4. With the rag, apply mineral oil across the entire area of your wood project

The application process is the same for wood cutting boards as it is for wood carving projects with only one key difference, the mineral oil used is deemed to be food-grade and safe to use on a cutting board. 

Food-Grade Mineral Oil for Cutting Boards 

Mineral oil labeled food-grade or for kitchen use is considered to be highly refined and non-toxic, making it safe for use on cutting boards where you will be preparing food. Unlike basic mineral oil, food-grade mineral oil is only used for certain wood projects that are meant for personal use and consumption. 

One might also find food-grade mineral oil in many everyday products. It can be found in make-up, food, vitamins, skin care products, cleaning products and of course oils for use on cutting boards! 

Pros and Cons of Using Mineral Oil on Wood

Mineral oil is a wonderfully versatile tool to have in your stash and can save your wood project from a premature trip to the trash bin. But, like everything, mineral oil also has its own downfalls to consider when deciding to use mineral oil on any of your wooden projects. 

The following sections will cover the pros and cons of using mineral oil for projects like wood carvings and cutting boards. 

Pros of Using Mineral Oil 

The pros of using mineral oil should be considered when researching its use on your wood carving projects or cutting boards. 

• Mineral oil is easy to use and apply.
• It does not discolor your wood projected when applied.
• It can seal your wood project and keep it safe for years.
• Certain mineral oil can be food-safe and used on cutting boards.
• Mineral oil will condition the wood and bring out the natural wood grain look.

Applying mineral oil to your wood project can be a good choice that will leave your project looking and feeling like new. 

Cons of Using Mineral Oil

As with any method of sealing and conditioning a wood carving, mineral oil also has drawbacks and limitations you should keep in mind.

• Mineral oil does not make your wood carving project or cutting board waterproof.
• Using mineral oil does not prevent scratches from appearing on your wood carving project or cutting board.
• A wood surface treated with mineral oil can eventually appear worn or dry if mineral oil is not re-applied on a regular basis. 
• Mineral oil does not make your wood carving or cutting board durable against other external factors that may ruin them.  

Having a good understanding of what mineral oil can do to your wood carving will spare you from having any issues down the road and keep your projects in good working order. 

Be sure to always read the labels of mineral oil bottles before applying to your wood project. Not all mineral oils are meant to be applied to wood projects or cutting boards! 

How Often Should You Reapply Mineral Oil to Wood Carvings and Cutting Boards

Once you have applied your first coat of mineral oil to your wood carving project or cutting board, you will want to reapply mineral oil every few months or when you start to notice that your wood item is starting to dry out. Remember, you can tell that your board needs more mineral oil if the shine is missing from it, the color starts to fade, or if it starts to feel dried out. 

By applying a few coats of mineral oil every now and then, you can keep your wood carving or cutting board lasting for many years to come. 

Basswood is the easiest wood to carve by hand or by machine because it’s lightweight, soft, and smooth. It has a fine, straight grain, even, and closed in its pores. It offers no resistance to a woodworker’s tools and creates an easy texture to shape.

If you’re interested in learning more about the qualities of this fine wood, why it’s the easiest to start with, and how to make other wood easier to work with, well then, you’ll have to keep reading the info we’ve got for you below!

Best Wood for Carving

In my professional opinion, basswood is the easiest wood to carve for 4 reasons,

1. It’s soft
2. It’s smooth
3. It’s lightweight
4. It doesn’t stink

Okay, so that last one is a personal reason, but everything else is important. What makes it so good? Two reasons:

1. It has a fine grain
2. It’s a soft hardwood

Grain in wood is the direction the cells of the wood fibers take throughout the lumber. Wood grain doesn’t always form in the same direction, and it’s important to cut with the grain. Carving against the grain makes you experience resistance, causing your tool to dig too deep into the wood and blunting it. 

Basswood has a fine, or closed, grain, meaning it has little pores that make the wood consistent and smooth. Open pores in wood cells make the wood coarse and an open grain makes any stain you use appear blotchy. So, in addition to being easier to carve, basswood makes it easier to make your finished work look great. 

Basswood is also considered a soft hardwood. That means it has low hardness and low density. It’s a lot softer and less dense than the hardwoods from the dicot tree category, making it light and easily malleable. 

Because of these two qualities, basswood only weighs 26lbs/ft^3 and has a surface that is smoother than butter that easily lets you make the cuts you want at the depth you want.

Hardest Woods to Carve

It’s nice to know which wood is the easiest to work with, but even basswood doesn’t have all the qualities you want. Sometimes you want to challenge yourself or use a wood with a different grain or different natural color. 

However, you might accidentally make things difficult for yourself, and one way to do that is to choose the hardest woods on the market. The hardest woods you can buy, according to the Janka Hardness Scale are:

1. Lignum Vitae
2. African Blackwood
3. Royal Ebony

Lignum vitae is the highest, requiring 4,500lbf (20kN) to get half an 11.28mm ball bearing into the wood. Not only is it extremely hard, but it also weighs 79lbs/ft^3 and the grain is often severely interlocked. 

Interlocked grain occurs when it spirals around the axis of a tree in one direction, and then suddenly reverses direction, making lignum vitae wood the most difficult to work. It can be done, with incredible results, but don’t start with it.

African blackwood has a much easier texture to work with. It has a straight grain that’s very fine and even, but it will blunt even your machine tools in no time because it takes 3,670lbf (16.32kN) to cut into it.

Finally, royal ebony wood is the “softest” of our hardest woods that require 3,660lbf (16.30kN) to dig into it. This wood is a gamble; it can give you straight, irregular, or interlocked grain, and will still blunt your instruments. 

What Other Woods are Easy to Carve?

When you do want to move on from basswood, what could you move on to? Well, there are several other kinds of wood that are good candidates for carving, namely,

• Balsa
• Pine
• Poplar
• Butternut

These are good candidates because they each share many of the same qualities that basswood has. Here are the summaries of their qualities: 

Balsa

• Hardness: 90lbf (0.4kN)
• Grain: Straight, open grain (open pores) with medium or coarse texture
• Softwood/hardwood: Hardwood
• Weight: 9lbs/ft^3

Pine (Eastern White)

• Hardness: 380lbf (1.7kN)
• Grain: Open-grain (open pores)/An even and straight grain with medium coarseness.
• Softwood/hardwood: Hardwood
• Weight: 25lbs/ft^3

Basswood

• Hardness: 410lbf (1.8kN)
• Grain Texture: Very fine/smooth/even
• Softwood/hardwood: Soft hardwood
• Weight: 26lbs/ft^3

Butternut

• Hardness: 490lbf (2.2kN)
• Grain: Open-grain (open pores)/ straight with a medium-coarse texture
• Softwood/hardwood: Hardwood
• Weight: 27lbs/ft^3

Poplar

• Hardness: 540lbf (2.4kN)
• Grain: “Poplar typically has a straight, uniform grain, with a medium texture.”
• Softwood/hardwood: Hardwood
• Weight: 29lbs/ft^3

Although most of these are classified as hardwoods, they are still among the softest woods that require the least amount of force to cut into because of their low density. The rough texture that some of these woods have will just mean that you will want to be careful with the direction of the grain.

How to Make Wood Easier to Carve

What if you don’t have the easiest wood to work with available? In trade as old as woodworking, there’s got to be a way to make your wood easier to shape and cut, right? 

There are two common issues with the wood you use that make it hard to carve: 

• It has too much moisture 
• It’s too dry and hard

It would be great to start a project with the right wood every single time, but since that skill only comes with a ton of experience, the rest of us need some help with what we have. 

When your wood is green and still has a lot of moisture, you need to be careful how you dry it. As it dries, your wood will shrink, making it prone to cracks. Try to air dry it out of the sun long and slow, or buy kiln-dried wood. 

So what about the dryness problem? A common suggestion is to soak your wood in water until it’s fully saturated to try to make it soft. I’m going to level with you:DO NOT soak your wood in the water! This causes several issues, including but not limited to,

• Discoloration of the wood
• Formation of cracks when dried
• Miscalculations from wood expansion 

Instead, go with a spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol and water mixture of at least 50/50. Opt for more alcohol when possible. Using strictly alcohol works great, but it’s expensive, so that’s why we mix. 

Using a spray bottle with this mixture means that instead of saturating the entire piece of wood, you’re able to soften just the section you need, and since alcohol evaporates so quickly, you don’t have to worry about any discoloration or other long-term damages of your work. 

Conclusion

Think you’ve got it now? We’re not really worried about you. We know you’re passionate about this hobby because you’re willing to learn, and we’re glad because we’d hate to see you give up on a hobby that can bring you an extraordinary amount of joy. We look forward to your masterpieces!

Tung Oil and Linseed Oil are both made from seeds that have been crushed for their oil. Linseed Oil is commonly used because it applies easily, leaves a satin finish on wood, and is cheap. Tung Oil is less common because it requires more coats to achieve the desired finish and is more expensive.

Having introduced these two types of oil, we are going to explore more about them. Specifically, we’ll look at what they are and the different attributes of a wood finish.

Differences Between Tung and Linseed Oil

Both tung and linseed oil can be used for similar projects. There are some things that you may want to use one or the other, but in general, these oils could be considered interchangeable.

Linseed oil is a great option to put an easy and simple coating on wood around your home. It can be used for everything from wood carvings, flooring, furniture, and even kitchenware like cutting boards. In any area that will touch food, you should avoid using boiled linseed oil, but the other two forms are safe to use around food.

Tung oil is a great choice if you need a more durable coating than linseed oil. While it still needs to be maintained, it will hold up better than linseed oil when used on flooring and boat decks. It is also more water-resistant than linseed oil. It is a better choice when you have lighter-colored woods like ash or dense woods like maple.

When shopping for each of these products, make sure to look at the ingredients in the can before you leave the store with it. Manufacturers tend to mislabel both types of oil, tung oil in particular. You’ll want a product that just contains the oil, not a mix with different types of oil, varnish, and paints added into the oil. As long as you do a bit of research into the product you are interested in, both of these oils are an excellent choice for your latest woodworking endeavor.

Linseed Oil

Linseed oil is an oil made from the crushed seeds of the flax plant. Also known as flax oil, it has many uses beyond woodworking. Flax oil is used as a dietary supplement in some cases. It can also be used as a paint thinner or as a polish for metals. In woodworking, Linseed oil has been used for hundreds of years to provide an attractive and protective cover to wood.

Pure linseed oil is rarely used for woodworking. 100% Linseed oil can take weeks to dry, (sometimes 2 – 10 weeks depending on the thickness of the coats), and doesn’t provide a noticeable difference in coat compared to the other forms. There are two treated forms of this oil that dry much faster.

The first is boiled linseed oil. Unlike what the name implies, this oil is not boiled. Instead, it is mixed with a handful of chemicals and catalysts that help speed up the drying process. While these chemicals do speed up the drying process they can release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) while drying and are generally not food safe.

Polymerized linseed oil on the other hand is heated up as a part of its treatment process. By heating it up over the course of several days, it becomes more viscous and lowers the drying time. Since the only addition to the oil is heat, it is still considered a natural oil like pure linseed oil.

Here are some pros and cons of using Linseed oil.

Pros

• Enhances the natural color of the wood it is applied to
• Won’t cover up the grain of the wood
• Non-toxic and environmentally friendly
• Easily penetrates wood grain when applied
• Dries quickly 1-2 days (Boiled and Polymerized only)
• Works well with other types of wood finishes and waxes
• Can protect wood against humidity

Cons

• Needs to be reapplied every year or so
• Should be reapplied more often (6 months max) if used on floors or high usage areas
• The finish can change color over time (yellowing)
• Not completely waterproof, won’t protect against extreme changes in humidity or water directly on the wood
• Won’t protect the wood from being scratched like a lacquer or varnish would
• Can absorb colored liquids leading the wood to be stained
• Can “bleed” oil if exposed to large temperature or humidity changes
• Oil is flammable and needs to be stored properly. Rags soaked in linseed oil have been known to burst in flames and should be stored in a container with water when not in use.

Tung Oil

Tung oil is a similar product to linseed oil. Like linseed oil, it has been used for hundreds of years to treat wood surfaces. Made from the crushed nuts of the Tung tree, it originated in China, where it has been used for years before spreading throughout the world.

Similar to linseed oil, tung oil comes in three primary forms. Pure Tung Oil is the simplest form, but it takes the longest to dry, taking several weeks depending on the environment. Boiled or polymerized tung oil is more commonly used due to its drying times. Each carries the same properties as its counterparts in the linseed oil family.

Here are some pros and cons to using Tung oil.

Pros

• Is a natural oil that is non-toxic and environmentally friendly (not boiled)
• Dries quickly in 2-3 days (Boiled and Polymerized)
• Applies in a clear coating that won’t change the color of wood
• Won’t cover the grain or texture of wood
• Food safe
• Provides a covering to wood that makes it mildly water-resistant
• Easy to apply to wood and repair
• Great for lighter colored woods

Cons

• Isn’t impervious to water or stain damage
• Requires more coats than other oils, like linseed oil, to get a similar finish
• More expensive than other types of wood oil
• Difficult to find in shops, other products are often mislabeled as tung oil
• Requires regular maintenance to maintain oil coat
• Susceptible to scratches

Tung Oil and Danish oil are both great options for wood finishes. They each have different ingredients, drying times, and a slightly different drying color. Danish oil dries faster and can last longer, while pure tung oil is all-natural and can give beautiful color to the wood.

Read on to find out the differences between Tung and Danish oil and how those differences make one oil better for different wood projects than the other.

What is Tung Oil?

Tung oil is a natural oil that comes from a seed. The trees that these seeds come from grow in Asia and South America and are known as Tung trees or Vernicia Fordii trees. Tung oil from these trees is used as an oil finish for wood to make the wood appear smoother and brighter. It also improves durability.

Sold at hardware stores, Walmart, Home Depot, and more, Tung Oil can come in pure tung oil form, or in hybrids. Some Tung oils have different solvents, resins, and other ingredients that adjust the durability, drying time, and color.

The product you purchase may have the ingredients listed on the label. Instruction for application and drying times may also be listed. Pure Tung oil straight from the seed will take longer to dry than a Tung oil blend.

Tung oil is can be used for stained and bare wood, water-resistant, does not produce harsh fumes and pure tung oil is food-safe. It is most often used for furniture (indoor and outdoor), wooden toys, musical instruments, tools, and more.

What is Danish Oil?

Rather than being all-natural and from a plant, Danish oil is usually a mix of Tung oil and linseed oil, mineral spirits, synthetic resins, and varnish. Danish oils will have different compositions depending on the company making them. The ingredients very amount different creators and the wide variety of ingredients makes the oil easier to use and more durable.

Some forms of danish oil is food safe and non-toxic, but you will have to check with the manufacture first. Similar to Tung oil, Danish oil is commonly used for furniture like kitchen tables, food utensils, tool handles, and more. It is used more often in modern days because of the mixed content. It is generally easy to apply and durable. It can also be purchased at stores like Walmart and Home Depot.

These oils can be purchased in different colors such as mahogany, walnut, golden oak, and more.

Drying Times

Danish oil and Tung oil in purpose and both leave a beautiful finish on wood, but they have a slightly different effect on the wood. The needed number of coats and the time it takes for them to dry differ between the two as well.

The pure version of Tung Oil takes longer to dry than danish oil. It is extremely thick. When applying it to a well-prepared wood object, brush or rub a generous amount of the oil on the wood. It will look like honey, but don’t eat it. For a few minutes, watch for the dryer spots on the wood and add more tung oil. Then, after waiting for at least 15 minutes, wipe off the excess oil and apply a second layer. It is up to you how many layers you would like to add. Most often people put on at least 2 coats, but you can add up to 7 or 8.

Pure tung oil can take days to a week to dry. When each coat sits for 15 minutes, it is not completely dry. When you add a layer, it adds a layer to the previous layer of the wet oil. It makes the layer heavier and denser, which makes it take longer to dry. The blended Tung oils can dry within the day.

When it comes to applying Danish oil, you can also use a brush or cloth. I primarily use an old rag to apply as it is much thinner and easy to apply than Tung oil. The time between coats should be at least 15 minutes. Most people do at least two coats of danish oil. Adding more is optional, but it is not as necessary because two coats should provide adequate coverage and protection. It takes an average of 6 hours for danish oil to dry.

Danish oil is more time-efficient to apply to wood. Tung oil takes longer to apply and completely soak into the wood. If the Tung oil is a mixture, it will dry faster than pure tung oil.

Color of Finished Wood

Both oils will leave a beautiful finish on the wood. Tung oil will make the wood slightly darker and brighter than Danish oil will. Tung oil tends to leave a brighter sheen, but there is hardly a difference.

Wood finished with danish oil has more texture. The grains on the wood appear more defined. If you love the design of the wood, it may be wise to use danish oil.

Tung oil brightens up the wood, giving it a slightly yellow tint. The sheen is shinier with Tung oil.

Durability

Projects finished with tung oil will need touch-ups more often than products finished with danish oil. Every couple of years, more layers of tung oil will need to be applied.

Danish oil tends to be more durable than tung oil. This is because of the added resins, varnishes, and other ingredients.

If you want to achieve a natural finish for one of your carving projects, consider using pure Tung oil. This traditional finish penetrates deeply into the wood and over time its surface cures hard, providing limited scratch and water resistance. As the finish ages, it will yellow slightly, producing a warmer appearance.

Danish oil is more commonly used, less time-consuming, and more durable than tung oil. It complements the texture of the wood. Tung oil is all-natural and will provide a slightly brighter look on the wood, but may take longer to apply and dry.

Tung oil is natural and comes from a tung tree while teak oil has a blend of different ingredients and chemicals. Teak oil dries faster than tung oil and can change the original color of the wood. Tung oil more closely preserves the original color of the wood.

Finishing products can be confusing because of the many different names used. To figure out which finish will best preserve your project, it is important to understand the pros and cons of each oil, which we have listed below.

Teak Oil

Many have the misconception that teak oil comes from the teak tree, but in fact, it is made from a blend of ingredients. Teak oil has linseed oil, tung oil, mineral spirits, and varnish. It also often contains petroleum to thin the mixture out. These are the most common ingredients, but really teak oil can contain almost any mixture.

More than an oil, teak oil is a varnish/oil combination. Unlike pure oil, you cannot leave excess teak oil on a project because it will dry wrinkled, and sticky. However, there are many projects where teak oil is appropriate when applied properly.

Teak oil is most often marketed for the use on the exterior and interior of boats, and for outdoor furniture.

Here are some pros and cons of teak oil that will help you decide if it is right for the job.

Pros

• Teak oil is great for outdoor projects because it provides UV protection so that the color of the wood doesn’t get bleached and fade.
• Teak oil is durable and won’t chip or crack when applied properly.
• Teak oil works well for dense woods like hickory, pine, spruce, and oak.
• Teak oil can be used for indoor or outdoor projects.
• Teak oil can be easily brushed on or wiped on with a rag.
• Teak oil dries quickly in about 2 to 4 hours.

Cons

• Teak oil can discolor wood. With age, the wood could become very dark. If in wet conditions, mold and mildew might cause the oils in the finish to turn gray or black.
• The hard finish of dry teak oil smoothes out the wood grain and makes it impossible to glue anything onto it because there is nothing for it to grip onto.
• Teak oil looks nice when you first apply it, but after being in outdoor or wet conditions, it doesn’t always maintain the same look.

Tung Oil

Tung oil has a long history as it has been used for thousands of years and is also known as China wood oil. It was used in China to preserve wooden ships because of its water-resistant qualities. The oil is made from the nuts of a tung tree, so it is 100% natural.

Pure tung oil dries to a honey color, but there are other options like dark tung oil that give the oil a darker and richer look once dry. This is a buildable varnish so in between drying, more coats can be applied to create better protection and waterproofing.

Tung oil is commonly used for wood floors, cabinets, decks, siding, furniture, and craft projects. It is also great for butcher blocks, cutting boards, wooden bowls, and utensils.

Here are some pros and cons that show the strengths and weaknesses of tung oil.

Pros

• Tung oil is water-resistant and this keeps wood preserved and mold-free.
• Because it is natural, tung oil is food safe and non-toxic so it is great for kitchen projects.
• Tung oil flexes with wood rather than cracking. Wood that expands will be strengthened by tung oil and won’t crack.
• Tung oil is easy to apply.
• Tung oil preserves the original color of the wood and gives a beautiful matte finish.
• Tung oil can be used indoors or outdoors.

Cons

• Tung oil does take a long time to dry. One coat applied can take 2-3 days to dry and harden.
• Tung oil does not store well. If it is exposed to heat and light it can become thick and pasty. You will not be able to use it after this.
• Pure tung oil does not penetrate wood well. Tung oil products that contain turpentine, however, do this much better.

Best Uses

Teak oil is most commonly used for outdoor furniture or wooden elements on boats and yachts. It is known to have UV properties, but this depends on the manufacturer and the number of coats applied. There is some debate about whether this is actually true.

Tung oil can be used on a variety of surfaces. It is often used on wood furniture, boat decks, flooring, or anything involving unfinished or weathered wood. It can also be used on non-wood surfaces like concrete floors, countertops, stone, brick, and more.

Both teak oil and tung oil cost about the same amount of money. Each costs about $20 for 16 ounces at your local hardware store.

Be careful about manufacturer mislabeling. Oftentimes you will see mixtures of oil and varnish (like teak oil) being labeled and sold as Antique oil, Maloof oil, tung oil, teak oil, or Danish oil. These are all likely very similar products. Beware of any product called “pure teak oil” because there is no such thing! Pure oil varnishes (like tung oil) might be called Wipe-On Poly, Seal-a-Cell, ProFind, salad bowl finish, tung oil, or teak oil. Make sure that you have is straight so you can walk away from the store with the right product!

While either teak oil or tung oil could probably work for your project, picking the right one could greatly impact the durability, look, and preservation of your wood item. Making the right choice could save you loads of money and time down the road, and knowing your options will make your next trip to the hardware store so much easier!

Here is what you will need to make the dog:

• Sharp whittling knife
• 3″ x 1″ x 1″ block of wood
• Pencil
• Leather strop

If you want everything you will need in one kit to get started, I highly recommend this affordable set from BeaverCraft: https://amzn.to/3yDmJf7
The kit comes with everything you will need and is of much better quality than the cheap stuff you see everywhere else.

You can using a larger block of wood if you want to, but it will take longer to whittle.

Before starting, make sure your whittling knife is nice and sharp. It is always a good idea to hone your knife with your leather strop before starting to whittle. If you feel like your knife is starting to dull out while whittling, strop each side 10 to 20 times and continue.

Downloadable Template

Video Guide

Gnome Wood Carving Tutorial

Follow the steps below to carve your own little gnome!

– Step 1

Start by using the template above to create the reference lines shown in step 1.

These lines show the bottom of the hat and the top of the nose in the middle center, elbow location on the sides, and the bottom of the beard and top of the shoes on the bottom.

– Step 2

Start by defining the bottom of the nose, bottom of the beard and top of the shoes by using a stop cut.

Then, trim the sides inwards on the corners of the block from the bottom of the elbows to the feet and then use a stop cut to separate the top of the arms from the bottom of the hat.

– Step 3

Next, we need to draw the hat on the top. You can draw a curved hat like I did or do a straight pointed hat for an easier project.

– Step 4

Now remove the excess wood from the sides so you have a good reference for where the hat is.

If you did a curved hat, this curve requires extra technique in working with the wood grain.

Remember to work with the grain properly, so come in from the top of the hat to the middle and meet it half way from the bottom of the hat on the left hand side in the picture.

– Step 5

Now, we are going to further shape the hat to a point, If you wanted a ball at the tip of the hat, leave more wood to do so.

Then define the nose a bit more using some stop cuts.

Finally, outline the beard with a pencell as shown.

– Step 6

Using a V cut and/or stop cuts, define and shape the beard.

I like to add a little wedge near the bottom of the beard to make it look like it is sticking out a bit more.

– Step 7

Now, lets lower the shoulders a bit to create more definition between the face, the hat, and the arms.

– Step 8

Now, lets start working on the body details. We will add in reference marks with a pencil for the inside of the arms and hands going into the pockets.

You can choose to add hands if you wish but this increases the difficulty.

– Step 9

Using pyramid cuts and/or stop cuts create an inverted 3 sided pyramid to define the arms.

Then using stop cuts, separate the hands and create pockets.

Finally, further define the feet.

At this point, feel free to sand the gnome and paint it with acrylic paint!

Here is what you will need to make the bunny:

• Sharp whittling knife
• 2.5″ x 1″ x 1″ block of wood (start with a 4x1x1 block and cut in half at 45 degrees for 2 bunnies per block)
• Pencil
• Leather strop

If you want everything you will need in one kit to get started, I highly recommend this affordable set from BeaverCraft: https://amzn.to/3yDmJf7
The kit comes with everything you will need and is of much better quality than the cheap stuff you see everywhere else.

You can using a larger block of wood if you want to, but it will take longer to whittle.

Before starting, make sure your whittling knife is nice and sharp. It is always a good idea to hone your knife with your leather strop before starting to whittle. If you feel like your knife is starting to dull out while whittling, strop each side 10 to 20 times and continue.

Downloadable Template

The downloadable template link is below and gives measurements in both inches and metric:

Bunny Tutorial Template

Inches:

Metric

Video Guide

For the full video tutorial with step by step guides and pictures, check out my YouTube video below!

Bunny Picture Whittling and Wood Carving Guide

Follow the steps below to whittle your own little bunny! This is a simple project but make sure to give yourself extra time if this is your first time. Over time you will get faster and will be able to make an army of little bunnies!

– Step 1: Cut and trace outline

First, take a 1x1x4 inch block of basswood and cut it directly in half at a 45 degree angle. This will give you two bunnies per block of wood!

Then use the template above to make the lines on the block of wood for the ears, neck, arms, and feet.

– Step 2: Extend outline on the sides of the wood block

Then, extend the top line around the sides and back of the block, this will indicate where the ears will be.

– Step 3: Rough out the proportions

Start by roughly shaping and separating the proportions using the lines indicated as shown.

These don’t have to be as deep as I made them, they are purely there to roughly shape and separate the ears, head, torso, legs, and feet for better visual reference and separate out each section we will work on one by one.

– Step 4: The back of the head

From here, we will work from the top of the bunny down, starting with the back of the head.

Use the lines created to separate out the ears and further define the head

– Step 5: Refine the face

Next flip the carving over to the front and further shape and smooth the head and ears.

You can at this point cut in the ear hones by using a v-cut technique, where you cut into the wood from two opposing sides that meet in the middle. This gives you a divot with 2 quick strokes of the blade.

– Step 6: Add the arms and body

This is the more tedious part of the carving, so take it slow here.

You can use the pencil as well to help plan an outline where the arms and chest will be while you are carving.

Separate out the arms and leave some wood in the middle for the bunnies chest puff, also called its dewlap. It just makes it look that much cuter!

– Step 7: Add the legs

Then, simply round the lower body to match the shape of the top and cut out the feet.

You don’t need to add a lot of details here, just imagine the bunny is sitting on its feet which hides them. Basically, give the “suggestion” that there are feet.

– Step 8: Add the tail

Add a simple little tail on the back side by removing some excess wood and leaving a small diamond or round ball, which ever you prefer.

From here, feel free to sand the bunny, paint it, or just cover it in a simple wood finish to show to your friends and family!

Here is what you will need to make the Ghost:

• Sharp whittling knife
• 2″ x 1″ x 1″ block of wood
• Pencil
• Leather strop

If you want everything you will need in one kit to get started, I highly recommend this affordable set from BeaverCraft: https://amzn.to/3yDmJf7
The kit comes with everything you will need and is of much better quality than the cheap stuff you see everywhere else.

You can using a larger block of wood if you want to, but it will take longer to whittle.

Before starting, make sure your whittling knife is nice and sharp. It is always a good idea to hone your knife with your leather strop before starting to whittle. If you feel like your knife is starting to dull out while whittling, strop each side 10 to 20 times and continue.

Video Guide

Step 1: Trace the Outline

The first step is to trace the outline and make reference marks on the piece of wood. You don’t need to be exact or perfect, but having them close to what is pictured will be fine.

Here are the reference points I drew starting from the bottom up:

• The line across the bottom third that looks like the belt is the center line that we will use as reference to prevent cutting against the grain.
• The curved lines on the sides represent the sides of the ghost
• The lines on the top third represent the tops of the arms
• the two vertical lines are the sides of the head.

Step 2: Cut Out Rough Details

To start, we are going the create the sides by making a sweeping cut following the lines we made on the sides to that center belt. We don’t want to cut past that center belt and start following the line back out of the wood or we risk splitting the wood. So cut in from both the top and bottoms to the line.

Then we want to block out the head. Make a series of stop cuts and start splitting the wood from the top down to the stop cuts as shown.

Finally, make a sweeping cut from the bottom front tip of the block to the top as shown.

Step 3: Take in the Sides

Now the rough shape is defined, lets start taking in the sides.

Using the same method to rough out the sides of the ghost, do the same sweeping cut towards the belt and make the waist more concave in shape.

Step 4: Define the Arms and Round the Body

From this point, it becomes pretty simple as most of the work is already done. To define the arms, just make a cut from the front and go back towards the arms and then come back in at a 90 degree angle to define the arms.

Then you just need to round out the head and smooth out the ghost.

Step 5: Add the Tail

From here, remove any chips and clean up your work a little. If something looks off just smooth out the area and try your best to balance everything out.

Feel free to add eyes and a mouth to your wood carving and add paint as desired.

For more whittling guides and information, check out my One Stop Whittling Resource Page for more details!