I’ll give you beginner pyrography tips that span from the start to the finish of your project. In this post, I want to impart a few tricks, like what tools you may want to have, how to use those tools, beginner-friendly woods to use, and different resources.

Keep Long Hair Tied Back

There are two old sayings everyone should hear at least once:

1. “Don’t play with fire”
2. “Don’t tempt fate”

This tip is a combination of the two. If you have long, luscious hair, you should NEVER tempt fate while practicing pyrography by having very flammable locks anywhere near the wood-burning tip. 

Long hair can absolutely have the tendency to

• Obstruct your vision
• Get too close to the wood-burning tip
• Get caught in every nook and cranny of your pyrography pen
• Sometimes its just annoying and can ruin your concentration 

If you don’t have a hair tie or wide headband to pull your hair back, rubber bands also work in a pinch and are sometimes a bit more available if you’re in the shop.

Use a Quality Wood-Burning System

As someone who needs to get a hang of pyrography techniques, you may not want to sink your money into the most expensive premium wood-burning system. While these systems are really nice, there are cheaper options that still provide you with a wonderful system that will last you years. What you may actually need is a quality wood-burning system that is affordable and flexible. 

I would personally suggest the Burnmaster HAWK wood-burning kit as it provides the user with a massive amount of burning tips as well as pen options and has the power to allow you to apply your art to almost every type of wood on the market. I and other professional wood crafters have praised this particular system because it has everything you need to get started for a moderate price.

A wood-burning kit should come with a wood-burning machine that reliably allows you to adjust the temperature of your wood-burning tips. That’s why I don’t care for the $20-$30 kits that just have the pen that you plug into the wall. The temperature dial will sometimes be on the pen itself which you can easily bump with your hand, or burn yourself trying to adjust.

Choosing a Wood-Burning System with Interchangeable Tips

There are a lot of kits to choose from, and it can be difficult to tell one from another, but you don’t want to waste your money! So, how can you tell you have a good kit? A hallmark of a good system is that it has interchangeable tips and/or pens that allow you to create different patterns and are easily replaced.

Most mid-range wood-burning systems have quality-made tips and pens that allow you to swap out tips. Some higher-end systems actually have a switch that allows you to quickly switch back and forth between your favorite tips.

A good feature of the Burnmaster HAWK kit, mentioned above, is it actually allows the user to use tips and pens from other brands and is one of the most universal and adaptable pyrography kits on the market.

Using Different Tips

When your new multi-tipped kit arrives, shiny and ready to go, the desire to jump in is incredibly strong. That’s definitely an encouraged way of getting started, but many of you are confused about what tip is used for what kind of pattern.

This is where I would encourage you to make a sort of “swatch” board for a quick reference for each tips patterns. Practicing wood-burning techniques with each tip at different temperatures and getting a feel for which techniques come easily to which tip, and which techniques are almost impossible! 

Then, with this swatch board, you don’t have to be confused about which tip does what. Be sure to avoid pressing down hard on the burning tips! It only takes a second of lightly pressing the tool onto the surface to get a solid markdown.

I recommend checking out Burnsavvy, they have excellent examples to give you a good idea of how to make your own swatch board.

The best place to start is by practicing with the universal tip first. It can do almost everything the other tips can do and will give you an idea of how to use the system for most of your projects. This point looks like a chisel and is the tip second from the right in the picture above. 

Never Touch Wood-Burning Tips

I know, I know! This seems pretty obvious, but you would be surprised how often this gets us. Why? Because we underestimate the temperature of a tip we were using when want to switch to another tip.

The tips are extremely conductive and will heat up almost instantaneously, so it’s easy to burn yourself even when you know what you’re doing. 

How are you supposed to switch tips out?

Different pens will have varying instructions but for most universal style tips all you need to use is flat-nosed pliers with rubber-covered handles, loosen any screws holding the tips in place, hold the tip tightly with your pliers, and then pull away from the pen to get each tip off. This will prevent damage to the wood-burning tips.

You should also have a safe place to place the tips so they are out of the way and dissipate heat. A simple piece of aluminum or even a makeshift tray of aluminum foil that has been folded over several times will help quickly dissipate the heat and act like a heatsink.

I personally do NOT recommend dropping a hot tip into a bowl of water. This sudden shock of cooling will cause stress fractures in the metal and shorten the tips lifespan.

Use Beginner-Friendly Woods

Not all wood options are the most suitable for pyrography. There are certain qualities you want from your wood in order to get the best image you can. Your wood should be,

• Light-colored to show fine details
• Evenly colored for finished projects
• Hard or soft according to the techniques you’re trying to do

Here are some examples of beginner-friendly pyrography wood types, along with their most notable strengths and weaknesses. If several sound good to you, opt for the cheaper to start with.

Balsa

If you are a fresh face to pyrography, balsa wood is a great place to start. It is best for practicing your techniques because of its closed and minimal grain, light color and you won’t beat its softness. It has every quality for perfecting your skills.

While balsa is easy to work with, it is often too soft to add intricate details and is easily damaged if dropped. This wood is best used for simple carving projects for beginners just learning how to manipulate the wood.

Basswood

Basswood has a beautiful even creamy color, is soft enough to add texture while burning, and easily darkens with just about any pyrography setup. Basswood can create great contrast creating beautiful finished pieces of art, this is why the majority use it for wood-burning.

Finding basswood can be troublesome for some depending on where they are in the world as these trees primarily grow in the North Eastern regions of the United states. If you have trouble finding the wood, you can try looking up Linden wood or a similar species in Europe, Lime wood.

Beech

If you want a light-colored but harder wood for a more practical application like handles, utensils, and signs, beech can work well. The only con is that it often has sap in the darker grains that can leak out after burning. Make sure the wood is dry and properly prepped before burning for best results.

Willow

Willow has smooth grains making it easy to burn curving or intricate patterns. Willow also retains its color after finishing instead of getting darker. It can be perfect for when you’re ready to create your beautiful finished product. The downside is that it can be harder to find, slightly harder to work with, and more expensive.

Maple

Maple is a beautiful wood with its minimal grain and light color it is great for finished projects. Maple though is high in hardness, therefore you need to use high heat to combat this. This will require an intermediate to professional-grade wood-burning station.

Woods to Avoid for Pyrography

A master can take a variety of woods and learn how to use their characteristics according to their intended project. However, if there is one type of wood that both novices and masters should avoid, it’s any man-made wood product, such as plywood or medium-density fireboard (MDF).

These might be tempting because they are readily available, but they are the worst to use because,

• They’re rough
• Splinter easy
• Are cumbersome
• Are often made with formaldehyde, causing toxic fumes while burning

Always Prepare Your Wood Surface

While you’re waiting for your pyrography pen to warm up, this would be a good time to prepare your wood surface. Splinters, raised knots, and other bumps or irregularities can make your image look odd when you’re finished, so it’s a good idea to sand new wood pieces to make everything smooth. 

Even if you buy pre-prepared wood online, you should carefully inspect each piece you intend to use at the beginning of each project. Keep an eye out for rough spots, darker spots that could contain sap, residue on the surface, and/or dust.

If you do need to remove some minor imperfections on the surface of the wood, you can simply remove most imperfections away with 300 to 600 grit sand paper. Just be sure to brush away all of the dust when you are done!

If there are some minor nicks or dents, you don’t need to sand the entire piece of wood to get everything smooth! Instead, take a damp wash cloth, fold it once to make a decent barrier, and place it over the dents or nicks. Then, take a hot clothing iron and press on the cloth to raise the wood grains. Once the wood dries, use some sandpaper to smooth everything out.

Image Transferring Methods

When it comes to image transferring, there are three methods:

1. Stamp
2. Iron
3. Trace

Stamping is perfect for beginners, so long as the design you want to attempt comes in an ink stamp. You should be able to find tons from craft stores. Once you have an image stamped on the wood with light ink (be careful of bleeding), that’s when you go over the stamped image with your wood-burning pen.

Ironing needs you to print your image on some paper with a toner-style printer instead of an inkjet. Gently iron the image onto your wood with the cotton setting. I recommend stamping instead.

Tracing is where you have your image on a thin sheet of either carbon, photo, or graphite paper. The image is covering one side with a substance like dark chalk, charcoal, or pencil lead. With careful, firm, and precise tracing with a pen or stylus your image will appear on the wood.

For details and some examples of these methods, take a look at this guide for help.

Using Books to Learn Wood-Burning

Using books to learn pyrography can really feel like a gamble. What if they don’t have everything you wanted to know? Why shouldn’t I just watch some YouTube videos of what I want to learn?

And yet, on the other hand, books don’t require 

• Having to be replayed, 
• Trying to find the exact spot in the training video you need over and over, 
• Often they can have better angles and better quality photos

When it comes to finding the right books for you, you will most likely need a few different books to help show you everything there is to offer

One book may teach you how to prepare your tools, how to prepare the wood, and teach you the basics of wood-burning techniques. Another book may teach you simpler designs, and another may cover more complicated designs you’re looking for. 

Keep in mind you need a solid foundation of pyrography principles and basic techniques to be able to do the more complicated designs. Be patient with yourself. Even Michelangelo couldn’t draw a decent circle at the beginning. 

Invest in a Smoke Collector

This is extremely important! None of us are trying to set fire to our wood supply or home, but nevertheless, fumes and smoke inhalation are a real danger in pyrography. Most of us work in an enclosed area such as a designated workshop room, or a garage, but when the weather is cold or hot we close the windows and doors. the fumes and smoke from pyrography can cause health issues.

Whether you’re working In good weather or bad weather, you need to have a smoke extractor on your desk because you are constantly inches away from the fumes. Yes, wood smells good, but the resins within can cause skin and eye irritation.

Some wood fumes are more toxic than others, and the small particles can make heart conditions worse by preventing oxygen from being carried to your tissue.

This is one example of a desk smoke extractor, which should be sufficient at the beginning for small projects.

Conclusion

I know you’ve got this squarely in the bag, but it sure doesn’t hurt to have the advice and expertise of someone who’s been where you are. I hope this small list of tips and tricks did something to help you get a sure footing on your path to pyrography.

Wood burning can be done inside as long as it is done in a workshop or a room with fans or an air filter. Avoid doing wood burning in a room in a house, as it will not be ventilated properly and the fire alarm will be set off. Never leave hot wood-burning tools unattended, even in a workshop.

As an avid pyrographer, I can personally assure you that wood-burning is even easier than it looks and it’s well worth your time. Know beforehand what to do when working indoors—as well as what not to do—and you’ll soon produce your own unique masterpieces!

It’s All About the Wood

Do:

• Use dry, untreated, fine-grained wood
• Gently sand the surface

Don’t:

• Use wet, stained, synthetic, or painted wood
• Leave natural ridges on the surface

A quality wood-burned piece begins with a good piece of wood. If you want your design to look clear, use a soft, natural piece of wood for the base. Pine, aspen, birch, poplar, and basswood are popular selections for their light color and fine-grained texture. You can also use branches and trunk slices from trees as long as they are completely dry.

Using wood that has been treated (i.e. with paint, stain, or a finishing coat) is dangerous, especially indoors, because these materials release toxic chemicals as they burn. For similar reasons, never use MDF, other wood composites, or synthetic wood products. Wood that is still wet (i.e. green, recently cut) will not release harmful chemicals, but it will release a lot of smoke as you burn, which can be harmful to your lungs and eyes and to anyone else who is in the building.

Always sand the surface of your wood before beginning your project. I like to use 320-grit paper, but any fine grain will do. Ridges and bumps increase the risk of the burner slipping out of your hand and coming in contact with something flammable.

Take the time to sand down your wood; your work area will be safer and your pen will glide more smoothly. Besides, there’s nothing more frustrating than trying to burn a line in your drawing and having the tool get repeatedly caught in the wood’s natural ridges. The smoother the wood, the smoother the process will be.

Set Up for Success

Do:

• Prep your work area; plan out the project beforehand
• Have needle nose pliers, a small bowl, and a docking station

Don’t:

• Work in a cramped space
• Work near pets, children, or anything flammable

It’s important to make sure that your indoor workspace is functional and safe. Have a plan for your project: how long it will take, the tips you plan on using, etc. Always follow the safety instructions that come in the manufacturing manual for the tool you’ve purchased. You are working with a tool that can get as hot as 750° to 1050° Fahrenheit—which is incredibly awesome, but which obviously warrants significant precautions.

Use a scrap piece of plywood or a fire-resistant surface (like ceramic tile) as a base beneath your project. Even on a workshop table that already has blemishes from other projects, use an extra base layer. It will prevent the burner from coming in contact with sawdust or small pieces of paper that could accidentally ignite. If you have a large enough space within your home, you can also work at a kitchen table or countertop. Just make sure that you have enough space for the cord to move around freely.

Plug in the electrical cord for the wood burner somewhere that has plenty of open space; working in a cramped area will increase the likelihood of injuries and accidents. Never work around pets or small children; distractions and unexpected movement/behavior are not worth the risk of severe burns! Never leave your work station unattended; unplug the tool and make sure it has cooled down completely before leaving the area.

A critical part of your project prep is setting up a docking station. Most wood burners will come with a metal piece you can safely dock it on between parts of the project. This is also where the needle-nose pliers and the small bowl come into play: Use the pliers to gently twist the tips on and off of the burner as you change them throughout the project. Put the tips in a ceramic, glass, or porcelain bowl. I like to use a ramekin; it’s the perfect size, and I can easily exchange tips without worrying that the hot pieces will burn anything.

Practice Makes Perfect

Do:

• Have a pencil, eraser, and tracing paper
• Practice on a big, plain piece of wood

Don’t:

• Touch the end of the wood burner
• Apply excessive pressure (on the tool, or yourself!)

Use a pencil and eraser to draw or trace the desired pattern directly onto the wood. You can print a reference and transfer it with tracing paper, or freehand whatever you have in mind. Having a basic pencil drawing will give you a clear guideline to follow and will be much easier than attempting anything freehand with the wood burner—at least for the first time around. This is also another reason you’ll want to have the surface well-sanded, as previously mentioned. It will be much easier to draw on if it is smooth.

Next, rest the wood burner at its docking station, plug it in, and turn it on. Wood burners usually take 4-5 minutes to heat up completely. Familiarize yourself with the heat dials and where the on/off button is located, just in case. Once the burner is hot, use your plain piece of wood (the same one used to protect your table) as a surface for practicing lines, curves, and shapes. You’ll soon get a feel for how the tool works, how hot it gets, how much pressure to apply, and so on.

Don’t press the wood burner into the wood with too much pressure; this can damage and distort the tips while they are hot. The tool gets hot enough on its own to burn the pattern naturally and effectively; if you want dark, bold lines, it’s more about time and focus than pressure.

It’s also easy to think of the wood burner as a pen, which it basically is, but never hold it exactly like a pen. Hold the burner gently around the middle; the top of the burner (near the tip) is extremely hot and can burn your hand.

Most of all, don’t stress it! Just have fun with practicing before starting more ambitious projects. Wood burning is all about going slow and steady; you can’t erase burn marks, so take your time. Before you know it, you’ll feel comfortable with the process and will begin developing your own unique style.

Gear Up and Breathe Easy

Do:

• Consider protective gear for your face and hands
• Ensure air circulation around your work space

Don’t:

• Leave your hair down
• Work on large pieces indoors

As you can imagine, wood burning can generate quite a bit of smoke, depending on the type of wood you’re using and the thickness of the pattern you’re creating. The smoke is almost guaranteed to float directly into your face since you’re leaning intently over your project as you burn.

To protect your eyes and lungs, consider wearing protective gear, like goggles and a facemask. Experts recommend masks with a rating of P-95 or higher to effectively filter out the smoke. You can also use heat gloves to protect your hands from accidental brushes with the burner.

Experts will always recommend that you wood-burn in a workshop, if possible. According to the EPA, wood-burning indoors can affect air quality and can be harmful to the health of anyone within your home. However, if you don’t have access to a workshop, there are plenty of ways to make the air safe to breathe while you are wood-burning, even in your own home. For instance, you can use fans, smoke absorbers, or air filters to ensure that there is a healthy amount of air circulation and are easily found online, like Amazon.

When people warn that you shouldn’t wood burn indoors, they are mostly referring to large pieces of wood or substantially bigger projects. With smaller projects, (like plaques, frames, boxes, and other popular mementos) you’re just fine to work at a counter or kitchen table.

I’ve recently been working on wood-burned Christmas ornaments, and I work right at my kitchen table. All I need for my setup is a little fan to help blow the smoke away from my eyes. Since the ornaments are fairly small and the designs are light and simple, the amount of smoke is negligible. The room may have a slight burnt wood smell, but no smoke is visible.

In fact, I’d compare the amount of smoke from wood-burning to the amount of smoke you get when you blow gently on a candle; don’t breathe it in directly, but you’re completely safe to be around it. Plus, if you like the “campfire smell,” the tiny emissions of smoke create a nostalgic, creative ambiance.

Side note: If you have long hair, or any length of hair that may fall into your face as you are working, always secure it back with a ponytail or a well-fitting hat. It’s not worth the risk of absentmindedly brushing hair out of your face while there’s a 750° iron tool in your hand!

Play Around

Do:

• Experiment with surfaces and finishes
• Clean your tools between projects

Don’t:

• Use the wood burner for anything beyond its intended purpose

One of the best things about wood burning is that there is such a wide range of projects and surfaces you can try. The wood-burning tool works on leather, cork, paper, gourds, canvas, bone, antler, cotton, horn, and tree bark. With the internet at your fingertips and a personal vision for rustic home décor, the sky is the limit!

If you want to add a personal touch to your wood-burned project, try applying a layer or two of stain to really bring out the natural beauty of the wood. I like to use light-colored stains because they look natural and don’t dull the design I’ve just burned, but if you burn with a thicker tip, dark stains can be a gorgeous finish. You can also try acrylic paint or watered-down color finishes for more customized, kid-friendly projects.

It’s always a good idea to seal the wood with a clear coat once it’s dry. I personally think that matte finishes will better show off your burning skills since glossy finishes can build up in the ridges, but it’s all a matter of preference.

Last but not least, if you are alternating between types of wood or other surfaces, be sure to clean your tips after each project. Carbon can build up on the tips as you burn and eventually the buildup will decrease their effectiveness. I like to use a gentle, fine-grained sandpaper or a washcloth to brush off the black debris. Obviously, wait until the tips are completely cool before you do this.

And there you have it! With these tips and tricks up your sleeve, you’re ready to begin enjoying one of the most underrated, enjoyable crafts in the industry. Ready, set, burn!

Wood burning, also known as pyrography, is not a hard activity to learn. The tools needed are easy and inexpensive to acquire and stencils can be purchased online to assist the artistic process. The best way to advance the skills needed in pyrography is to give it a try and get used to the tools.

Now that we understand that there is nothing to be afraid of in wood burning, how is it done? Continue reading to learn more about beginner’s tips and techniques for wood burning.

What Do I Need for Wood Burning?

Let me give you a quick answer for the tools needed, and then I will go more in-depth.

Tools Required

1. Pieces of wood
2. A well ventilated work area
3. A pyrography kit
4. Lots of time

Wood burning is relatively simple, right? All you really need are some small bits of wood, an area away from things that could be melted or burned, and a wood burning tool with accessories you like.

Art is never that simple, but wood burning can be if you take it slow. Here I have a few tips and tricks that can help you learn a bit more about wood burning.

Types of Materials

You can use any kind of wood for pyrography, but some of the best options include pine, aspen, birch, basswood, and poplar. This is because these types of wood are soft, have minimal grain, and are lighter in color, which will make the burn marks show up a little better than if you used dark woods.

My favorite wood to burn and is what I recommend to others are basswood sheets because they are inexpensive and provide a large yet clean canvas for beginner wood burners. Prices range from 10 to 40 dollars, but I recommend buying a 8-pack like this one to get started with.

A good idea when starting out with wood burning is not to have only one small section of wood to work with. Especially if you’re learning, it is near impossible to get it “perfect” on the first try. If that is the goal, you can print out a stencil online or purchase a book with images that fits the size of the material you are using by tracing the image.

We recommend looking into purchasing the Pyrography Workbook by Sue Walters. She explains how to transfer your drawings into your materials, necessities for the workspace, how to prepare wood, how to use color in your pieces, and ways to transfer your drawings onto materials other than wood.

Wood Burning Tools and Kits

In the beginning, it can be hard to manipulate your heated tool and maintain a consistent temperature. Because of this, it is a good idea to invest in a good quality tool that fits your art style and needs.

Prices for wood burning tools can range from 10 dollars to 400 dollars. With such a wide range, you have many options for starting this hobby but the quality of the tool varies with the price-ranges. Many of the cheaper kits just don’t have the power to give a consistent burn and easily wear out.

If you’re serious about getting into pyrography, I recommend the Burnmaster HAWK Single Port Woodburner package available on Amazon as it has a middle of the road price point with some high end options built in. From my experiences, this is the best value wood burning kit on the market today and allows you to add new shaped tips at an affordable price.

Let’s look at the different kinds of accessories so that when you start your next project you know what you need!

Wire-Nib Tips

• Skew Tip: This tool is angled or slanted which allows the artist to use it for long lines or feathers.
• Spear Tip: This tool has a pointed edge and is helpful for getting into tight places or fine details on your art piece.
• Round Tip: This tool has a circular point which is great when you want only a little indentation on the wood or material.
• Chisel Tip: This tool is shaped like a box and is used for running quill lines.
• Ballpoint Tip: This tool has a tiny ball at the end which is good for calligraphy or writing motions.

Solid-Point Tips

• Universal/All-Purpose Tip: This tip is used for creating straight lines or outlines.
• Calligraphy Tip: This is a good option for curved lines or writing lines.
• Extra Fine Tip: This tool is used for details, straight lines, or light curves.
• Shading Tip: This tool is great for filling space or adding shadows.

Suggestions for Wood Burning

Now that you understand what you need to start wood burning, let me leave you with a final few tips.

First, know that softer wood burns faster, so you need to manage your time well when working with them. Tools that produce less heat are better used on softwoods such as basswood rather than hardwoods such as oak.

Next, use your heated tool in light and circular movements. Instead of putting a ton of pressure on your tool, using it lightly on a softwood will give you better results, especially when shading. Once you are sure of your shape, you can go back over and clarify your straight lines and outlines.

It is also suggested to sand your wood piece if it is not already smoothed out. You should also seal your wood so the stain will not bleed in nearby areas.

When you are using your heated tool, it is smart to go with the wood grain, especially if you are a beginner, because there will be less resistance and risk for burn injury.

Finally, understand that any mistakes made on your piece just add character to the piece! Nothing needs to be perfect, especially when wood burning is not forgiving of mistakes. It is all part of the art process!