All of these knives listed below have been tediously researched and tested by me to ensure that I am providing you the best possible options regardless if you are an absolute beginner or have years of wood carving experience.

Every knife on the list was picked for you to ensure that you are getting a quality knife that comes sharp from the manufacture, has the proper steel hardness, can maintain a sharp cutting edge while whittling, and are properly designed for carving wood.

There will also be a mixture of both quality and value on this list, so beginners can also find something really nice without spending too much money.

Quick Table of Contents:
– Key Aspects to A Good Wood Carving Knife
– Best Whittling and Wood Carving Knives on the Market
– Best Budget Friendly Whittling Knives for Beginners
– Best Sloyd Wood Carving Knives
– Best Folding Pocket Knives for Whittling

Key Aspects to A Good Wood Carving Knife

Before we start, there are 3 very important things to consider when buying a good wood carving knife; blade length, blade shape, and steel hardness. These factors alone can actually make or break your entire carving experience.

– Blade Length

The ideal whittling and wood carving knife blade length is between 1-1/4 to 2 inches in length (30 to 50mm) with most people desiring a 1-3/4 inch blade (45mm). This is important as if the blade is too long it is harder to add fine details with, if it is too short, it cant remove a lot of wood.

The exception is a sloyd style knife, which is typically longer and curved to remove larger pieces of wood at a time. These are typically between 2 inches and 3-1/2 inches in length (50 to 90mm).

– Blade Style

Then there is the blade style itself, you will see primarily 2 styles of knives; upswept blades and straight blades.

The straight blades basically have a flat cutting edge, and this is where I generally point beginners to first as the edge is easy to maintain and you know where the point is at any given time for detail work.

Upswept blades, or just curved cutting edges in general, have a wonderful benefit of naturally slicing through the wood when using them and making it easier to cut through the wood. However, the curved edge requires some technique for maintaining and the tip may be a little harder to use for detail work.

– Steel Hardness

While you can use most any knife for whittling, steel hardness plays a key factor in maintaining a super sharp cutting edge while using your wood carving tools.

For reference, I will be using Rockwell Hardness (HRC) to judge the steel hardness. Ideally, you want a HRC between 58 and 62. Any less than 58 and the cutting edge will wear out quickly, but any more than 62 and the edge becomes too brittle and may chip during use. For more information, check out my page on whittling knife hardness here:
https://carvingisfun.com/whittling-knife-hardness/

Best Whittling and Wood Carving Knives on the Market

The first several knives on this list are what I believe are the absolute best whittling and wood carving knives currently on the market. These are considered by experienced whittlers and wood carvers alike to be premium whittling knives that are hand made with meticulous attention to detail and decades of experience.

However, as of 2024 there are some on here with long wait times due to popularity, being made by hand, and life disruptions. I will make notes of these so you are made aware.

But still, you will be hard pressed to find better knives than these anywhere. Seriously, if you want the best, this is it. I have bought knives from about 20 other companies that didn’t make it to this list, nobody is paying me to say anything, and I don’t get a commission from anyone not on Amazon (which is the entirety of this section).

– Deepwoods Ventures

First on my list is Deepwoods Ventures! These knives not only look great, but are made with amazing quality control. I can always find exactly the type of knife I need from them at any time and am always satisfied with the result.

These knives come in a wide variety of different blade styles to fit almost any wood carving need, including tools for spoon carvers. So, if you need a good thin detail knife or you like your knives to have some strength to them and look good, Deepwoods Ventures is the way to go!

Many beginners and experienced carvers alike may get nervous when using a super thin blade like Helvie or Drake knives, but Deepwoods Ventures provides options for both thin details and tough roughing knives for a one stop shop!

Not only that, you can upgrade the handles on most any knife for a little more money to a more premium wood handle for extra beauty and uniqueness to may anyone jealous of your knife collection.

Some people may find that the flatter handles on their regular wood carving knaves to be a little uncomfortable or awkward if swapping back and forth between different knife sets. You will eventually find that they naturally fit into the palm of your hand and are easy to curl your fingers around after some use. So stick to Deepwoods for your entire toolbox and you will be a happy camper!

To pick up your Deepwoods Ventures knife, check out their website below:
https://deepwoodsventures.com
If you want a good beginner kit, complete with leather strop, I highly recommend their Level 2 Beginning Carving Set.

– Silvern Works

A relatively new option that is just as good as the others on this list are the knives from Silvern Works. These knives have a well shaped blade and a selection of comfortable handles to choose from!

Since they are just starting out, they only have a few varieties of blade and handle options available but all of them are the right sizes and shapes for just about anyone looking to have a great whittling knife available.

The blade size, shape, edge, and thickness are all ideal for working with basswood and even work great when carving cherry and walnut. Everything from the blade to the handles are well thought out and are perfect for anyone looking for a quality made whittling knife!

Silvern Works is still relatively new to the scene and have plans for future growth with different blade shapes and tool options in the future.

This is definitely a brand to keep an eye on and will be a great addition to the other hand crafted knives on this list. I highly recommend their tools and have had nothing but great experiences using the knives.

You can pick yours up from their website: https://www.silvernworks.com/shop/

– Lee Ferguson Knives

If you are looking for a classy and well made whittling knife, Lee Ferguson will be the perfect fit for you!

Lee Ferguson makes some excellent knives and has a few beautifully crafted wood carving knives available for purchase.

From tip of the blade to the end of the handle, Lee Ferguson wood carving knives are quality knives for an amazing price! The nice and thin blade allow you to make super precise cuts and the smooth rosewood handles are very comfortable to hold for hours on end.

If you are looking for an elegant and effective hand crafted whittling knife, you won’t be able to beat the Lee Ferguson knife prices for what you are getting.

The only thing you may want to be aware of is the handles are on the slender side, so users with bigger hands may find them to be a little small.

You can pick up your knives directly from his website at FergusonKnives.com

– Helvie Knives

If you are looking for what many consider to be the pinnacle of premium whittling and wood carving knives, Helvie is the way to go.

I did move this one down on the list due to availability and an 18 month+ waitlist. Plus, at this time, one of the people running the company is experiencing serious health issues and are currently halting new orders. You can see updates on their home page here: https://helvieknives.com/

Still, if you have one of these, you have my absolute favorite knives out there!

I personally love my Helvie knives and believe that they are, without a doubt in my mind, the best wood carving tools that I own. They come right to you with a professionally honed, razor sharp, blade and just hold their edge for a long time.

The only issue you may run across is that because the are so sought after there is a hefty wait list and, as of today, is over 18 months. If you are willing to be patient, they are absolutely worth it.

To pick up your Helvie knife, check out their website below:
https://helvieknives.com/

– Drake Knives

For the price, Drake knives are very hard to beat. They are exceptionally well made tools that are beautifully crafted from tip to handle.

I did move this one down on the list due to availability and an 8 month+ waitlist. Also, the main person running the company recently passed away and his family is stepping in to continue his work.

Regardless, if you want a classy whittling knife designed to last, Drake knives are hard to beat!

Without a doubt, these knives just ooze “premium” when you hold them in your hands. They are smooth, comfortable to hold, and easily cut through woods like basswood.

These knives are some of my favorite tools on the market to day and all knives are made to order. You also get different types of wood handles with each knife, making every one of your tools a unique work of art on its own!

Since these knives are all made to order, there may be a 2-3 week wait time, depending upon how busy they are and how complex the knife is to make. Still, they are very much worth the wait and are perfect for experienced carvers.

The only things you may want to keep an eye on is the fine tip on the detail knives as they can be damaged if improperly handled. If you are going to do roughouts, I highly suggest the Gil Special for any major cuts and only use the detail knives for fine detail work.

Also, the original maker of the knives has recently passed away but his family is keeping the company going. There is a long wait time on the tools as they are made by hand, which is about 6 to 8 months as of today, so if you are patient these are wonderful knives to have in your toolbox!

To pick up your Drake Knife, check out their website below:
https://drake-knives.myshopify.com/

Best Budget Friendly Whittling Knives for Beginners

– Schaaf Tools 5 Piece Carving Set

This is a new addition to the wood carving market, but I absolutely love this set. I love it so much I bought 2 of them!

Schaaf Tools decided to shake up the whole market with this one. You get really nice steel quality, good and super sharp cutting edges, comfortable handles, an ideal spread of tools for beginners, and a nice tool wrap to put them in.

I’m telling you now, you will not find a better value beginner set for wood carving and spoon carving than this set from Schaaf Tools. End of story, go buy it, just do it. Here’s the link to pick one up for yourself: https://amzn.to/3VOt4yb

– Flexcut Carving Knives

Quite a few of you coming to this page are beginners who are looking for a nice set of knives to star your whittling hobby off right, so these next few knives are going to be your best options for a cost effective price that will last you for many many years to come.

The best and easiest whittling knives to find on the market right now are Flexcut wood carving knives!

If you look up whittling knives on the internet, Flexcut will be one of the most prolific brands available and can be purchased at many different retail outlets that sell wood carving tools.

Flexcut offers a wide variety of different tools to fit just about any wood carving need at a great price. That combined with their excellent steel quality and handle finish, makes it a hard tool to pass up.

These knives are quality made, mass produced wood carving tools that are sharp and ready to use right when from the beginning. Not only that, they sell knife sets and kits to get beginners started off right with properly balanced tools that complement each other. If you want to see my full review, click the link below:
https://carvingisfun.com/flexcut-review/

For the price of the Flexcut tools, they are really hard to beat and are good enough to be the only knives you will need for whittling! If you want to pick up a great starter kit, check out the Flexcut Beginner Knife and Palm set on Amazon: https://amzn.to/37z3XrY

But if you just need a single knife for an all purpose whittling knife, the Flexcut Roughing Knife will satisfy almost all of your whittling needs: https://amzn.to/3PWJq3X

– OCC Tools

For a whittling knife with that hand crafted feel at an affordable price, look no further than OCC Tools!

OCC Tools makes some very well crafted whittling and wood carving knives to fit just about any occasion. Each tool comes with a super sharp and well made blade that is perfectly suited for beginners to experts.

Each OCC tool is hand crafted and made specifically for wood carving. You can find a wide variety of different blade shapes and lengths matched with a wide variety of different handles to fit just about any carvers needs.

The only real complaint that I hear from people is the slightly blocky shape to the handle. Because of the affordable cost of the hand crafted knife, the handle isn’t as refined as many other hand crafted knives but they are still comfortable enough to use for hours at a time. For my full review, click the link below:
https://carvingisfun.com/occ-knife-review/

These knives are primarily sold at smaller and more specialized wood carving stores, here are a list of my favorite places to buy them:
TreelineUSA.com
TheWoodcractShop.com
MountainWoodcarvers.com

If you live in Canada, check out ChippingAway.com

If you want to get into whittling and wood carving but don’t have the budget for some of the more expensive knives, there are a few great options that perform really well at a great price!

– BeaverCraft Wood Carving Tools

When it comes to the bare basics for what you need for a decent whittling knife, Beavercraft has you covered.

These knives may be on the cheaper end of the spectrum, but they shouldn’t be overlooked if you need a decent whittling knife at a good price.

BeaverCraft wood carving tools are a great stepping stone into whittling and wood carving. They have a large selection of different tools to choose from and sell complete wood carving kits that provide you with the tools you need, a way to maintain those tools, plus a way to store them for under $45.

These tools are more on the simple side with a basic wood handle, slightly thicker blade, and no frills design. Even then, they come razor sharp right out of the box and allow you to get started carving right then and there.

One of the only things that I wasn’t fond of with the BeaverCraft knives are the blade thicknesses on most of their tools. They are a little thicker than your standard knives like Flexcut, but even then this makes them ideal for beginners as they are less likely to be damaged from misuse.

If you want to get started whittling with everything you need (minus carving gloves) check out BeaverCraft’s Whittling and Woodcarving kit on Amazon at an amazing price: https://amzn.to/3LXaonG

Best Sloyd Wood Carving Knives

Some of you may just need a tool that can easily remove large sections of wood quickly, and that’s where sloyd knives come in to play. These are typically longer bladed knives with thicker blades and a full tang so you can put some power behind your cuts. These are exceptionally handy for roughing out wood to carve.

– Flexcut Sloyd Knives

My overall favorite sloyd knives on the market are hands down the Flexcut variants. They are more expensive but have excellent edge retention and feel great in the hands.

If you are looking for an absolute workhorse of a sloyd knife made with quality steel, the Flexcut knives are a great option.

The Flexcut Sloyd Knife (KN50) and Stub Sloyd (KN53) are exceptional quality knives that are made to last a lifetime! The edge retention is superb and overall design is top notch. If you are looking for that one and only sloyd knife that will last, grab a Flexcut Sloyd knife.

Like I mentioned, these are slightly more expensive knives than some other variants on the market, but for me they are worth every penny.

Possibly, the only real complaint that I have is the Stub Sloyd does not currently come with a sheath, which Flexcut sells separately for $17 to $20. However the regular sloyd knife does come with a sheath, but costs a little more than the stub sloyd by itself.

If you want to pick up your own Flexcut Sloyd knife, check out Amazon for some great prices:
Stub Sloyd – https://amzn.to/375H4wy
Regular Sloyd – https://amzn.to/3LQffGY

– Mora Carving Knives

For a quality sloyd knife at a much more affordable price, look no further than Morakaniv (Mora) Knives!

Mora knives come at a very affordable price and come with a basic sheath to protect the knife for storage and make them easy to carry with you.

Without a doubt, Mora Knives are the the best choice for an affordable yet quality wood carving knife on the market. With its laminated high carbon steel blade, full tang blade, and comfortable handle, you will have all of your sloyd knife needs fulfilled with a Mora Knife.

My only real complaint about these knives are the laminated steel itself. The core of the blade is made of high carbon steel, but the thin outer laminated layer is made of a slightly softer steel lamination. This can sometimes lead to the edge dulling out with heavy use. Even then, it is easy to sharpen back to a nice razor edge in no time at all.

To pick up your Mora knives, check out Amazon for the best prices:
Mora 106 (longer) – https://amzn.to/3rjZ9hg
Mora 120 (shorter) – https://amzn.to/3xjg7zW
Mora 122 (flat edge) – https://amzn.to/3KCgqK3

Best Folding Pocket Knives for Whittling

For many of you, the whittling knife will have to be portable as you will primarily whittle while camping or just on the go in general. This is where a dedicated and quality folding knife that you can just put in your pocket and whittle wherever you want will be ideal.

– Great Eastern Cutlery (Farm and Field)

One of my favorite whittling pocket knives currently on the market is the Great Eastern Cutlery #62 Pocket Carver (Farm and Field variant). This knife is a little on the pricey end and can be hard to find, but is an amazing pocket knife for what you are getting!

Great Eastern Cutlery (GEC) is known for making quality, hand crafted knives, and with their Field and Stream varieties, you get their quality blades at a more affordable price!

The GEC #62 Pocket Carver is an exceptional whittling pocket knife that is pretty well thought out in design. You get three blades in total with two of them being identical so if one starts going dull on you, just switch to the other identical blade and keep carving!

Even in its simplified version with the Farm and Field logo, you are getting a quality knife that will last you a lifetime. Compared to the collectable, more expensive versions, these were definitely designed to be used every day without any remorse.

If you do get the #62 Pocket Carver, I do recommended grinding back the bevel on the cutting edge for a smaller edge angel. This will make the knife cut through wood just a little bit easier and improve your overall experience.

To pick up your GEC, check out Ebay for the best prices by clicking here.

– Flexcut Detail Jack

If you want what I consider to be the best and most easiest to find dedicated whittling pocket knife available today, it will be The Flexcut Detail Jack. This knife has a permanent home in my traveling wood carving kit

The Flexcut pocket knives use the same quality steel as their regular pocket knives and put them in a compact and portable pocket knife.

If you are looking for a versatile, quality made, whittling pocket knife look no further than the Flexcut Detail Jack. With this excellent folding whittling knife, you get a locking blade and a wonderful knife to both shape the wood and add small details with!

Flexcut makes great knives that are purpose built for whittling and wood carving. These tools are affordable and are most likely exactly what you are looking for!

If you want to pickup your own Flexcut Detail Jack, check out Amazon for the best prices: https://amzn.to/43WGv15

– Mastercarver

If you are looking for a more traditional, single blade pocket knife with a locking blade, Give the MasterCarver Pocket Whittler 2 a shot!

The MasterCarver Pocket Whittler 2 has that classic look, beautiful curves, and purpose built blade to make any experienced whittler jealous.

For those of you who need a locking blade for their carving knife, the MasterCarver Pocket Whittler 2 will be one of the best options on the market today! With its properly hardened 440C steel blade combined with its classy good looks, this will be a hard knife to beat for the price!

Just holding this knife in your hands is impressive on its own as it is finished smooth to fit in your hands without any strange or sharp points bumping into your hands. This is indeed a fine tool that is designed to last.

To buy yours, check out Amazon for the best price here: https://amzn.to/3jseGHj

More Woodcarving Tips

If you are new to whittling and are looking for a place to get started, check out my one stop resource for whittling and woodcarving at https://carvingisfun.com/Whittling/

I have seen hand crafted, custom made pens easily sell between $50 and $200 for basic builds and some very high quality hand crafted pens sell for over $1000 to the right person!

Lets go over how you can make your own pens at home!

Gathering tools and materials (pictures in Required Materials folder)

The starting required tools for pen turning, aside from a lathe and lathe tools, are a pen kit, bushings, a drill bit, and a pen mandrel.  It is possible to do it without a mandrel, but vastly easier and will save a lot of time and headache. 

CA glue (super glue) will also be needed to attach the pen barrel to wood, as well as sand paper and some kind of wood finish.  Lastly, and most important of all, is the pen blank.  There are a few other tools I will mention that make life easier as we create.

Pen blanks are small pieces of wood, usually cut offs and scraps, that are turned into pen barrels.  They can be made from any wood (even punky or dry rot wood that has been stabilized), but harder woods are easy to sand. 

Softwoods will have tear outs if your lathe tools are not super sharp, but can work perfectly fine.  A nice figured cedar is excellent, or use a scrap cut off from a 2×4.

Other materials can make excellent pens, like the vast variety of resins or hard substances like antler, and even soft clay that is baked in the oven.  Most blanks are ¾ of an inch square by 5 inches long.  That’s large enough for just about any kit.

Pen kits are sold at many different online retailers, but I would suggest you buy good quality.  I get all of mine from Penn State Industries or Woodcraft locally.  The cheap sets I have purchased in the past had problems, and these two retailers will fix any problem you have with the kits. 

Quality kits aren’t that much more expensive either.  Regardless of the kit you purchase, make sure you get the correct matching bushing set.  Bushings will be your gauge on the diameter of the pen barrel as you turn and can differ from style of kit.  If you buy an assorted set of one style, often they will include a package of bushings. 

Also take note what size drill is required.  Most kits use a 7mm bit, but some thicker and fancier kits require an 8mm or larger.

Safety note: when turning always wear a face shield.  You are taking a small block of wood and shaving it down to a fraction of an inch thick.  A blank fracturing apart is possible.  Something simple like the Sellstrom Face Shield is cheap, gives enough room to breath and is less likely to fog up on you as it allows your breath to easily disperse. You can pick them up for cheap on Amazon here: https://amzn.to/3x8L0GA

Furthermore, I would highly suggest wearing a respirator or at least a dust mask as it will help with most woods, but some, like cocobolo, are toxic.  It’s like inhaling pepper spray while you turn.  Other materials like polyester resin and especially horn or antler stink to high heaven and a respirator helps dramatically.

A good low profile respirator with replaceable filters is ideal as you can wear it behind a face shield. One of the best options available right now is the Elipse P100 Respirator on Amazon is a great option, you can pick one up for a good pirice here: https://amzn.to/3TTpr6C

Pen Blank Prep

Rulers and measuring tape are not required.  Line up the brass tube with your wood and mark it (fig 1a,b,c).  Give yourself a little wiggle room on either side. 

Next you will need to cut your blank.  Use whatever method you are comfortable with, such as a band saw, hand saw, etc.  You do not need to be precise, it’s ok to be sloppy.  I can’t cut a straight line with my band saw to save my life, but that doesn’t matter (fig 2a,b).

Drilling the hole through the blank can be done before sawing, but the longer the piece is, the easier it is to make a mistake.  To drill the hole, you can use a vise (fig 3) or a specially made pen vise from Penn State Industries (fig 4) with a drill press or a steady hand with a cordless drill. 

My preferred method is with pen jaws and drill chuck (fig 5a).  This gives me the straightest hole with the least worry (fig 5b).

With the hole drilled in both pieces (assuming your kit has two barrels in the pen), check to see if your brass tubes are smooth or roughed up.  Some come pre-scuffed.  If they are smooth, you will need to sand them with a 150 or 220 grit paper, so that the glue has something to cling on (fig 6).

Apply CA glue (superglue) to the brass barrel (I like to use the “thick” CA glue for this part), and then insert it into the blank, gently spinning the tube as it goes in (fig 7 and 8). 

This will insure an even coat to bond well with the blank.  The tube should be just below the wood on both sides of the blank (fig 9). If you have accelerator spray, you can spritz the CA glue to harden it faster.  Now is a good time to do more drilling and cutting off blanks while this one dries.

The last step of prep is to trim the blank to the tube.  Some people get a specific miniature saw for this, but it is easy to use a disc sander if you have one (fig 10). 

If your blank is too long, trim it shorter before sanding it flush.  My preferred method is to use a tool called a barrel trimmer.  You buy it as a kit to work on just about every size you’ll need.  Get the more expensive carbide version so that you don’t need to sharpen it (fig 11a, b, c).

Mounting

There are several different styles of pen mandrels on the market.  I have and use both a direct mount mandrel that uses a brass nut to tighten the stack together and a #2 MT that uses a tailstock center.  The later one is a little more expensive, but works much better in my option. 

After a lot of use, the brass nut gets annoyingly stiff to tighter or unscrew, and too much pressure can be accidentally applied to the mandrel, causing it to bend.

With either style, use several spare bushings (with mandrel kits, you get a few extra) to space yourself away from the head stock.  Put your first blank half, then any special bushings you need in the middle, and then the back bushing. 

Some kits will have odd sized bushing, but the instructions will always tell you the order.  If it matters to you, make sure your wood is aligned so that the grain matches, as it will be too late after we start turning.  I like to visualize the pen tip as the piece closest to the head stock.  Tighten your mount or tailstock and you are ready to make chips.

Shaping the Pen Blank

Start off with turning the blanks to round.  It is a good idea to have a design in mind and make a sketch of the profile before trying to make shapes, though freestyling it can produce interesting results at times.  As you turn the material down, take fairly light cuts. 

It your wood catches on your tool, you are either being too aggressive, or your bushings are not tight enough together.  Use any tool you prefer to get it to round, such as a roughing gouge or chisel.  My go-to is a thick scraper. 

I use a chisel to mark where I want to make dips or other figures, and for close up work on the ends.  Think of how the end user will hold the pen, and what will be comfortable.

Take it very slow around the bushings or when you are trying to get flush with the bushings.  You can easily take more material off but it is a lot harder to put material back on.  The bushings themselves will be scratched and beat up from time to time. 

They are consumables, and may need to be replaced every two dozen kits if you are sloppy.  If you make a mistake and trash the blank, don’t fret.  They sell packages of just the brass tubes at reasonable prices.  It’s wise to pick up one just in case.

Sand and Finish

Once you are finished shaping, turn your lathe to a low speed and get the tool rest out of the way.  Depending on how many tear outs you have and how sharp your turning tools are, you’ll want to start with a 100 to 220 grit sand paper. 

If your lathe is turning too fast, you will build up a lot of heat and wear out your paper faster.  I also like to use a sanding sponge. 

In between grits, stop the lathe and sand laterally so that you take off your sanding rings before moving on to the next grit.  If your pen blank is wood, I recommend going up to a 320 grit max, otherwise, you might lose the wood feel.  It’s the texture that sells it. 

At the last sanding grit I use, I will start to apply a finish and sand at the same time.  A drop of Doctor’s Woodshop Walnut Finishing, or actual walnut oil, on sand paper will act as a wood filler while you sand and leaves a nice subtle finish. 

I also use Doctor’s Woodshop Pens Plus as a friction finish to polish it up to a high gloss.  Both of these products are not very expensive and last a long time.  I’ve done about a hundred pens and used less than half a bottle.  It also works great on any bowls or spindles you turn. 

Regardless of finish, as a pen gets used lovingly over the years, the finish will ware.  I have found that these two keep the wood looking and feeling like smooth aged wood, and my daily use pen stays in a pocket with keys every day.

If you use any of the resins, or decide to do a CA glue finish on the wood (if it is fragile or full of holes, do this), take that sanding up to the max.  After 320, I start wet sanding with 600 grit, and then move on to a product called Micro Mesh that gets up to 12000 grit. 

The small pads are not expensive, and they last a long time.  The whole process is much more time consuming, but gets you the super smooth feel with no scratches at all.  Safety warning: if you use a CA glue to finish, make sure there is no cotton in your rag or paper towel as you apply the liquid.  Cotton reacts chemically, and produces a foul vapor that will sting your eyes something fierce, like onions on steroids.

Assembly (pictures in Assembly folder)

Final assembly of the pen should be done with care and patience.  You can use a bench vise (fig 12) or a pen press like the one from Penn State Industries (fig 13). 

While the vise is incredibly accurate, a pen press has the ability to take apart the pen should you make a mistake.  Assembly order should always be on the instructions that you get with your kit.

Start with pressing the pen tip into the first barrel, making sure you are using the correct side of your pen blank (fig 14). 

If using a bench vise, don’t let the steel come into contact with either the pen tip or the wood of the barrel to prevent damage.  Use a soft wood or scrap of leather as a buffer.  For a twist pen, the most common you will start out using, place the brass end into the front tube, and slowly press it in until the brass is no longer showing (fig 15). 

Take it out of the press and put the ink cartridge into the pen, screwing it in like you would when finished (fig 16). 

You are checking to see how far the pen extends and retracts.  It is critical that you take your time and then make small adjustments to the depth of the twist assembly.  Should you go too far, you will need to disassemble the whole thing (which is a pain, but possible with a pen press).

Press the back end cap and the clip to the rear pen barrel (fig 17). 

Slide the decorative ring over the installed ink cartridge and hand press the two halves together.  Line up the wood grain if you need to, and you are now finished.  Take a moment to admire what you created.

Pen Turing Idea Gallery and Examples

All pens and instructions were written and taken by my friend who wishes to stay anonymous and has given permission to share his skills on Carving Is Fun.

Don’t worry, it’s pretty straight forward. Keep reading, because in this article we’ll go over everything you need to do to prepare your strop.

Choose Your Compound for Loading Your Strop

You can’t prepare your leather strop if you don’t have a honing compound to use! These compounds typically come in one of three forms:

• Diamond spray
• Diamond paste
• A polishing block

As you choose your polishing agent, there are two factors you should consider: the agent’s “bite” and its polishing effect. 

The coarser the agent is, the more bite it has and the more material it will take off, but the finer an agent is the better it will polish. You can get both your desired bite and the polish you want by buying two honing blocks, one coarse and one fine for the perfect combo.

Diamond sprays will actually usually have a good balance of both bite and polish and come in a convenient spray. Diamond paste is also really good, but remember that compounds and pastes have different grain sizes, and it’s not obvious by the color.

One company may use green to denote its coarsest option while another uses it to denote its finest. So read the packaging carefully. If you’re new to stropping, it’s recommended that you use 3,000-12,000 grit compounds. After that, woodworkers usually opt for 0.5-microns (50,000 grit) compounds.

Gather Your Materials

Now that you know what honing compound you want, you need to collect the rest of your supplies. You will need,

• Your leather strop
• Isopropyl alcohol
• 320 grit sandpaper
• A stove
• Your compound
• A knife
• Paper towel
• A cloth

Clean Your Strop

If your leather is clean, you don’t need to worry about this step, but if your leather strop is brand new, has been gathering dust, or got stained, it will need to be cleaned.

To clean your strop, apply your isopropyl alcohol and rub it down with a cloth to clean it thoroughly.

Next, use 320-grit sandpaper to clean it even better and to give the strop a texture that your compound will be able to hold on to. I wouldn’t use the sandpaper unless you have a brand new strop though. And remember to be gentle! You’re not trying to skin your leather.

Apply Mineral Oil

This step is really quick. If your strop is new or hasn’t been used in a long time, it would be a good idea to put a thin coat of mineral oil on the leather before you put on the honing compound. The mineral oil will help keep the leather flexible instead of brittle.

Warm Your Compound

Stropping compounds are often sold in a block, and that block can get pretty hard. You may need to warm up your compound block a little bit so that it applies itself more easily.

You can warm it by putting the block in the microwave for about 5 seconds, holding it in your hands if they’re warm, or holding it over a heat source. Be careful not to overdo it! You don’t want to smother the leather.

Naturally, this doesn’t apply to use if you opted for the diamond paste or spray.

Apply Your Compound

Now is the time to apply your compound. Regardless of which compound form you chose, all you want is a thing layer over the whole leather strip. Each is applied a little differently, so we’ll go over each one.

Compound Block

Use your block like a big crayon. You don’t need to cut off a piece, just hold the whole stick. You can use light, fast strokes in the same direction, or just rub the compound back and forth. The second way is a little better because you want to warm up the leather through friction so that the compound melts a bit and absorbs into the strop. You can rub it into the strop if the compound isn’t absorbing evenly.

Diamond Spray

The spray is very simple. You just spray it! The only difficultly may be in trying not to accidentally spray to much. Try to apply two even layers to cover the leather entirely. Remember that this stuff is extremely coarse, and getting it into your eyes in any way would be disastrous.

Diamond Paste

Lastly, to apply diamond paste, squeeze just a couple of pea-sized dots onto the leather and massage it into the strop with your bare hands. The paste will work fast. If your leather feels dry after you apply the paste, add a couple more dots. You don’t need much of this stuff so be careful. ALWAYS start with the finest grain paste possible. Applying a fine grain on a coarse strop works great, but vice-versa is messy.

Once you have applied your compound, use the edge of a knife at a low angle and pulling away from the knife’s edge to press the compound into the strop. 

Heat up Your Strop

Now your leather strop is “charged,” as we like to say. Now, to really get the block compound properly absorbed into the strop, start up a burner and hold the leather over the flame so that you warm it but not burn it. Once the compound melts a bit, you can take your paper towel and rub it in. If your strip warps, you can easily fix it by laying it flat and putting a heavy book on top.

Be careful not to have the heat too low because the compound might flake off. You would have to try again in that case.

Start Stropping Your Tools!

Once you have smoothed out your stropping compound to a nice thin layer, start stropping your tools.

Remember to strop with the cutting edge trailing. Never strop with your cutting edge leading or it will cut into the leather and damage your strop.

Conclusion

While stropping isn’t a difficult task, you might be asking yourself, “why bother?” especially when a casual sharpening stone seems to do just fine. It’s primarily for its polishing factor, removing any and all imperfections. Compare sharpening with just a honing stone and then with both the stone and strop, you’ll be surprised.

Wood burning can be done inside as long as it is done in a workshop or a room with fans or an air filter. Avoid doing wood burning in a room in a house, as it will not be ventilated properly and the fire alarm will be set off. Never leave hot wood-burning tools unattended, even in a workshop.

As an avid pyrographer, I can personally assure you that wood-burning is even easier than it looks and it’s well worth your time. Know beforehand what to do when working indoors—as well as what not to do—and you’ll soon produce your own unique masterpieces!

It’s All About the Wood

Do:

• Use dry, untreated, fine-grained wood
• Gently sand the surface

Don’t:

• Use wet, stained, synthetic, or painted wood
• Leave natural ridges on the surface

A quality wood-burned piece begins with a good piece of wood. If you want your design to look clear, use a soft, natural piece of wood for the base. Pine, aspen, birch, poplar, and basswood are popular selections for their light color and fine-grained texture. You can also use branches and trunk slices from trees as long as they are completely dry.

Using wood that has been treated (i.e. with paint, stain, or a finishing coat) is dangerous, especially indoors, because these materials release toxic chemicals as they burn. For similar reasons, never use MDF, other wood composites, or synthetic wood products. Wood that is still wet (i.e. green, recently cut) will not release harmful chemicals, but it will release a lot of smoke as you burn, which can be harmful to your lungs and eyes and to anyone else who is in the building.

Always sand the surface of your wood before beginning your project. I like to use 320-grit paper, but any fine grain will do. Ridges and bumps increase the risk of the burner slipping out of your hand and coming in contact with something flammable.

Take the time to sand down your wood; your work area will be safer and your pen will glide more smoothly. Besides, there’s nothing more frustrating than trying to burn a line in your drawing and having the tool get repeatedly caught in the wood’s natural ridges. The smoother the wood, the smoother the process will be.

Set Up for Success

Do:

• Prep your work area; plan out the project beforehand
• Have needle nose pliers, a small bowl, and a docking station

Don’t:

• Work in a cramped space
• Work near pets, children, or anything flammable

It’s important to make sure that your indoor workspace is functional and safe. Have a plan for your project: how long it will take, the tips you plan on using, etc. Always follow the safety instructions that come in the manufacturing manual for the tool you’ve purchased. You are working with a tool that can get as hot as 750° to 1050° Fahrenheit—which is incredibly awesome, but which obviously warrants significant precautions.

Use a scrap piece of plywood or a fire-resistant surface (like ceramic tile) as a base beneath your project. Even on a workshop table that already has blemishes from other projects, use an extra base layer. It will prevent the burner from coming in contact with sawdust or small pieces of paper that could accidentally ignite. If you have a large enough space within your home, you can also work at a kitchen table or countertop. Just make sure that you have enough space for the cord to move around freely.

Plug in the electrical cord for the wood burner somewhere that has plenty of open space; working in a cramped area will increase the likelihood of injuries and accidents. Never work around pets or small children; distractions and unexpected movement/behavior are not worth the risk of severe burns! Never leave your work station unattended; unplug the tool and make sure it has cooled down completely before leaving the area.

A critical part of your project prep is setting up a docking station. Most wood burners will come with a metal piece you can safely dock it on between parts of the project. This is also where the needle-nose pliers and the small bowl come into play: Use the pliers to gently twist the tips on and off of the burner as you change them throughout the project. Put the tips in a ceramic, glass, or porcelain bowl. I like to use a ramekin; it’s the perfect size, and I can easily exchange tips without worrying that the hot pieces will burn anything.

Practice Makes Perfect

Do:

• Have a pencil, eraser, and tracing paper
• Practice on a big, plain piece of wood

Don’t:

• Touch the end of the wood burner
• Apply excessive pressure (on the tool, or yourself!)

Use a pencil and eraser to draw or trace the desired pattern directly onto the wood. You can print a reference and transfer it with tracing paper, or freehand whatever you have in mind. Having a basic pencil drawing will give you a clear guideline to follow and will be much easier than attempting anything freehand with the wood burner—at least for the first time around. This is also another reason you’ll want to have the surface well-sanded, as previously mentioned. It will be much easier to draw on if it is smooth.

Next, rest the wood burner at its docking station, plug it in, and turn it on. Wood burners usually take 4-5 minutes to heat up completely. Familiarize yourself with the heat dials and where the on/off button is located, just in case. Once the burner is hot, use your plain piece of wood (the same one used to protect your table) as a surface for practicing lines, curves, and shapes. You’ll soon get a feel for how the tool works, how hot it gets, how much pressure to apply, and so on.

Don’t press the wood burner into the wood with too much pressure; this can damage and distort the tips while they are hot. The tool gets hot enough on its own to burn the pattern naturally and effectively; if you want dark, bold lines, it’s more about time and focus than pressure.

It’s also easy to think of the wood burner as a pen, which it basically is, but never hold it exactly like a pen. Hold the burner gently around the middle; the top of the burner (near the tip) is extremely hot and can burn your hand.

Most of all, don’t stress it! Just have fun with practicing before starting more ambitious projects. Wood burning is all about going slow and steady; you can’t erase burn marks, so take your time. Before you know it, you’ll feel comfortable with the process and will begin developing your own unique style.

Gear Up and Breathe Easy

Do:

• Consider protective gear for your face and hands
• Ensure air circulation around your work space

Don’t:

• Leave your hair down
• Work on large pieces indoors

As you can imagine, wood burning can generate quite a bit of smoke, depending on the type of wood you’re using and the thickness of the pattern you’re creating. The smoke is almost guaranteed to float directly into your face since you’re leaning intently over your project as you burn.

To protect your eyes and lungs, consider wearing protective gear, like goggles and a facemask. Experts recommend masks with a rating of P-95 or higher to effectively filter out the smoke. You can also use heat gloves to protect your hands from accidental brushes with the burner.

Experts will always recommend that you wood-burn in a workshop, if possible. According to the EPA, wood-burning indoors can affect air quality and can be harmful to the health of anyone within your home. However, if you don’t have access to a workshop, there are plenty of ways to make the air safe to breathe while you are wood-burning, even in your own home. For instance, you can use fans, smoke absorbers, or air filters to ensure that there is a healthy amount of air circulation and are easily found online, like Amazon.

When people warn that you shouldn’t wood burn indoors, they are mostly referring to large pieces of wood or substantially bigger projects. With smaller projects, (like plaques, frames, boxes, and other popular mementos) you’re just fine to work at a counter or kitchen table.

I’ve recently been working on wood-burned Christmas ornaments, and I work right at my kitchen table. All I need for my setup is a little fan to help blow the smoke away from my eyes. Since the ornaments are fairly small and the designs are light and simple, the amount of smoke is negligible. The room may have a slight burnt wood smell, but no smoke is visible.

In fact, I’d compare the amount of smoke from wood-burning to the amount of smoke you get when you blow gently on a candle; don’t breathe it in directly, but you’re completely safe to be around it. Plus, if you like the “campfire smell,” the tiny emissions of smoke create a nostalgic, creative ambiance.

Side note: If you have long hair, or any length of hair that may fall into your face as you are working, always secure it back with a ponytail or a well-fitting hat. It’s not worth the risk of absentmindedly brushing hair out of your face while there’s a 750° iron tool in your hand!

Play Around

Do:

• Experiment with surfaces and finishes
• Clean your tools between projects

Don’t:

• Use the wood burner for anything beyond its intended purpose

One of the best things about wood burning is that there is such a wide range of projects and surfaces you can try. The wood-burning tool works on leather, cork, paper, gourds, canvas, bone, antler, cotton, horn, and tree bark. With the internet at your fingertips and a personal vision for rustic home décor, the sky is the limit!

If you want to add a personal touch to your wood-burned project, try applying a layer or two of stain to really bring out the natural beauty of the wood. I like to use light-colored stains because they look natural and don’t dull the design I’ve just burned, but if you burn with a thicker tip, dark stains can be a gorgeous finish. You can also try acrylic paint or watered-down color finishes for more customized, kid-friendly projects.

It’s always a good idea to seal the wood with a clear coat once it’s dry. I personally think that matte finishes will better show off your burning skills since glossy finishes can build up in the ridges, but it’s all a matter of preference.

Last but not least, if you are alternating between types of wood or other surfaces, be sure to clean your tips after each project. Carbon can build up on the tips as you burn and eventually the buildup will decrease their effectiveness. I like to use a gentle, fine-grained sandpaper or a washcloth to brush off the black debris. Obviously, wait until the tips are completely cool before you do this.

And there you have it! With these tips and tricks up your sleeve, you’re ready to begin enjoying one of the most underrated, enjoyable crafts in the industry. Ready, set, burn!

Wood burning, also known as pyrography, is not a hard activity to learn. The tools needed are easy and inexpensive to acquire and stencils can be purchased online to assist the artistic process. The best way to advance the skills needed in pyrography is to give it a try and get used to the tools.

Now that we understand that there is nothing to be afraid of in wood burning, how is it done? Continue reading to learn more about beginner’s tips and techniques for wood burning.

What Do I Need for Wood Burning?

Let me give you a quick answer for the tools needed, and then I will go more in-depth.

Tools Required

1. Pieces of wood
2. A well ventilated work area
3. A pyrography kit
4. Lots of time

Wood burning is relatively simple, right? All you really need are some small bits of wood, an area away from things that could be melted or burned, and a wood burning tool with accessories you like.

Art is never that simple, but wood burning can be if you take it slow. Here I have a few tips and tricks that can help you learn a bit more about wood burning.

Types of Materials

You can use any kind of wood for pyrography, but some of the best options include pine, aspen, birch, basswood, and poplar. This is because these types of wood are soft, have minimal grain, and are lighter in color, which will make the burn marks show up a little better than if you used dark woods.

My favorite wood to burn and is what I recommend to others are basswood sheets because they are inexpensive and provide a large yet clean canvas for beginner wood burners. Prices range from 10 to 40 dollars, but I recommend buying a 8-pack like this one to get started with.

A good idea when starting out with wood burning is not to have only one small section of wood to work with. Especially if you’re learning, it is near impossible to get it “perfect” on the first try. If that is the goal, you can print out a stencil online or purchase a book with images that fits the size of the material you are using by tracing the image.

We recommend looking into purchasing the Pyrography Workbook by Sue Walters. She explains how to transfer your drawings into your materials, necessities for the workspace, how to prepare wood, how to use color in your pieces, and ways to transfer your drawings onto materials other than wood.

Wood Burning Tools and Kits

In the beginning, it can be hard to manipulate your heated tool and maintain a consistent temperature. Because of this, it is a good idea to invest in a good quality tool that fits your art style and needs.

Prices for wood burning tools can range from 10 dollars to 400 dollars. With such a wide range, you have many options for starting this hobby but the quality of the tool varies with the price-ranges. Many of the cheaper kits just don’t have the power to give a consistent burn and easily wear out.

If you’re serious about getting into pyrography, I recommend the Burnmaster HAWK Single Port Woodburner package available on Amazon as it has a middle of the road price point with some high end options built in. From my experiences, this is the best value wood burning kit on the market today and allows you to add new shaped tips at an affordable price.

Let’s look at the different kinds of accessories so that when you start your next project you know what you need!

Wire-Nib Tips

• Skew Tip: This tool is angled or slanted which allows the artist to use it for long lines or feathers.
• Spear Tip: This tool has a pointed edge and is helpful for getting into tight places or fine details on your art piece.
• Round Tip: This tool has a circular point which is great when you want only a little indentation on the wood or material.
• Chisel Tip: This tool is shaped like a box and is used for running quill lines.
• Ballpoint Tip: This tool has a tiny ball at the end which is good for calligraphy or writing motions.

Solid-Point Tips

• Universal/All-Purpose Tip: This tip is used for creating straight lines or outlines.
• Calligraphy Tip: This is a good option for curved lines or writing lines.
• Extra Fine Tip: This tool is used for details, straight lines, or light curves.
• Shading Tip: This tool is great for filling space or adding shadows.

Suggestions for Wood Burning

Now that you understand what you need to start wood burning, let me leave you with a final few tips.

First, know that softer wood burns faster, so you need to manage your time well when working with them. Tools that produce less heat are better used on softwoods such as basswood rather than hardwoods such as oak.

Next, use your heated tool in light and circular movements. Instead of putting a ton of pressure on your tool, using it lightly on a softwood will give you better results, especially when shading. Once you are sure of your shape, you can go back over and clarify your straight lines and outlines.

It is also suggested to sand your wood piece if it is not already smoothed out. You should also seal your wood so the stain will not bleed in nearby areas.

When you are using your heated tool, it is smart to go with the wood grain, especially if you are a beginner, because there will be less resistance and risk for burn injury.

Finally, understand that any mistakes made on your piece just add character to the piece! Nothing needs to be perfect, especially when wood burning is not forgiving of mistakes. It is all part of the art process!

You can whittle with any knife as long as it has a sharp edge and is comfortable to hold. The best knives to use for whittling will have a hardened carbon steel blade, a fine razor edge, and typically have a blade shorter than 2 inches.

I’m sure you are already thinking about what knife you already have available to you and want to get started. Keep in mind that your knife is the most important tool you will use while carving. While you can whittle most any knife, some of them will make the creative process more enjoyable while others may hinder you and slow you down.

Lets go over some great knife options so you can pick the right knife for you!

What Knives Can You Use for Wood Carving?

Whittling the the process of creatively shaping wood with just a knife, so picking the right knife for the job can make or break your experience.

While all knives will work for whittling if they are sharp enough, some knives will be easier to use than most because of their shape, size, or steel quality. There are several different knives that I have found to work well for whittling, like pocket knives, multitools, sloyd knives, and purpose built whittling knives.

Each type of knife come with their own benefits as they all differ in size and styles, it will be up to you what type you should get to fit your exact needs which will be highlighted below.

Pocket Knives

Pocket knives are available all over the world and just about all of you reading this probably have one in a toolbox or in your pocket right now. Since many people carry one with them wherever they go or have one while they are camping, this will be what the vast majority of people start whittling with.

Simply having a whittling knife that you can throw in your pocket is the biggest draw to why so many people use them. I myself have a specific pocket knife that I carry with me every day so I can sit down and whittle whenever I wish.

Here are several other reasons why you may want to use a pocket knife for whittling:

• Widespread availability
• Large variety
• Portability
• Multiple types of blades in one tool
• Perfect for whittling on the go
• You probably already have one

There are some downsides to consider as well, and it would be wise to review them before making a final choice:

• Local laws may prevent carrying a pocket knife
• The handles may be small and uncomfortable to hold
• The better quality pocket knives are typically more expensive than an equivalent fixed blade knife
• You will need to properly sharpen the edge before use

We will go into more detail on what makes a knife good for whittling further on in this article, but here are a few great pocket knife options that should fit the majority of your needs.

– Swiss Army Knives

The amazing Swiss Army Knife (SAK) made by Victorinox is a wonderful tool that comes in a large variety of different tool combinations. From my experiences, the best combination for whittling is having a SAK with a large blade, a small blade, and a wood saw to cut off branches with. This results in a balanced and effective whittling knife you can just throw in your pocket!

A great and affordable SAK that covers all the bases you will need for whittling is the Swiss Army Hiker pocket knife. It comes with all recommended tools for whittling and extra every day tools that someone may want to use outside of whittling. Click here to check out the price on Amazon.

– Congress Style Pocket Knives

When many people think about a traditional pocket knife, the congress pocket knife is one that many think of. This style of knife has been around since the 1800’s and was made for shaping quills and whittling. Since it comes with 4 different types of blades, you have a wide variety of cuts you can make with the knife.

There are a wide variety of different manufactures who makes these knives, but the best option for whittling are ones that come with a carbon steel blade for better edge retention. My favorite one is the ones made by Boker as they make high quality tools at a good price and this their traditional congress available on Amazon comes with carbon steel blades.

Whittling Knives

For many of you, using a purpose made whittling knife may be a better option for you. These knives are designed specifically for the purpose of cutting through wood and typically perform better than your standard every day knife.

Many people who are serious about whittling will buy a purpose made whittling knife as they simply out perform any regular fixed blade knife or pocket knife when used for wood carving.

Here are several reasons why you may want to purchase a whittling knife:

• Shorter blades that are easier to control
• High carbon steel blades for better edge retention
• Blades are typically thinner and come with a proper edge grind for wood carving
• Handles are usually more comfortable to hold
• Come in a variety of different lengths and shapes to make the precise cut you need.
• Most come honed razor sharp for immediate use

There are a few downsides to consider as well:

• Carbon steel blades can be brittle and may break if used improperly
• Not ideal for every day use
• Harder to carry with you
• Carbon steel blades can rust if improperly stored
• Can be harder to find

There are quite a few companies that make these specially designed blades, but the two that I recommend to beginners are Beavercraft and Flexcut as they are easier to find and are affordable. If you want to see my complete list of the best whittling knives available, click here to see some other amazing options.

– Flexcut Tools

Flexcut has been making wood carving tools since 1992 and make a wide variety of different tools from knives to gouges. Their tools are easily found in most woodcraft stores and in major online stores like Amazon.

What sets this company apart from the others in their space is the quality of the tools for the price you are paying for them. You are getting a quality made tool that is designed to last you decades and slices through wood right out of the packaging.

Not only that, their tools have comfortable and well thought out handles that allow you to keep carving for hours with little to no hand fatigue! If you want to get into whittling, check out Flexcuts really nice 3 knife starter set on Amazon.

– Beavercraft Tools

Another great wood carving tool company that I regularly recommend to beginners on more of a budget is Beavercraft tools. They may nice quality tools at a very affordable price and are honed razor sharp right out of the packaging.

What really sets this company apart from everyone else the overall quality at such an affordable price and their complete whittling and wood carving kits. Even though there are cheaper kits available online, they just can’t compare to the quality that Beavercraft makes.

If you are ready to start your whittling journey and get the most for your money, check out Beavercrafts outstanding full whittling kit on Amazon! It comes with 3 knives, a leather strop to hone your blades, and a rolling tool bag to store everything!

Multitools

Some of you, like myself, may find a traditional pocket knife or even a Swiss Army Knife lacking in overall utility. This is where the wonderful multitool really shines as it allows you to perform a multitude of every day functions and carry everything you will need on your hip or pocket.

While these tools are normally bulkier than an average pocket knife, the overall function for every day use more than makes up for the added size.

Here are some great reasons why you should pick a multitool for whittling or wood carving:

• Lots of tools with more usability than a typical pocket knife
• Bigger handles to get a better grip
• Many have locking blades for a more secure tool
• Lots of tool options available to reach beyond the typical scope of whittling and wood carving.
• More options on steel quality than a typical Swiss Army Knife

Even though multitools are great options, there are some downsides to consider:

• Multitools are heavier and bulkier than a traditional pocket knife
• Good quality multitools will typically cost more than a pocket knife
• You may need to properly sharpen the edge before whittling

When picking out the right multitool for me, I have to consider all of my intended uses. One of the big ones for me is whittling and wood carving as it can limit my overall options for the main cutting blade. If I intend to use the knife for whittling as well as my overall every day tool functions, there are only a select few tools that I will use.

Because of my own personal needs and desires, the only company that offers everything I need in a multitool is Leatherman. They have a great selection of tools available and some of those have their 154CM high carbon steel blades which are great for whittling! My two favorite Leatherman’s that I like to carry around with me are the Leatherman Charge Plus for all around general purpose use and the Leatherman Skeletool CX for a more simplistic multitool which can both be found on Amazon for a great price

Sloyd Knives

Sloyd knives are a traditional Swedish wood carving knife that excels at shaping and removing both small and large sections of wood. They differ from a regular whittling knife in that they are typically much thicker and longer than a standard whittling knife. Not only that they will typically have a different edge grind and has a curved cutting edge.

You will see sloyd knives come in varying lengths, the longer versions excel at removing large sections of wood while the smaller ones are great for smaller, more controlled cuts. Most wood carvers who are working on projects that fit in their hands will find the smaller sloyd knives easier to hold.

Here are some popular reasons why many wood carvers have a sloyd knife in their toolbox:

• Great for removing large sections of wood
• Has a comfortable handle
• Easy to maintain cutting edge
• Many have a pointed tip for small detail work
• Has a thick blade making them very durable
• Most quality sloyd knives have a full tang construction

There are only a few downsides, but they are still a great knife to have:

• Thicker and longer blades reduce the overall precision of your cuts
• Some of the good quality sloyd knives are more expensive than a whittling knife
• Blade style and length may vary from manufacture to manufacture

One of the sloyd knives that I like to use and suggest to most people is the Mora 120 Sloyd Knife. These are wonderful knives made in Switzerland and easily slices through wood with their laminated carbon steel blade. You can find them in most wood carving stores for a great price, or on Amazon by clicking here.

What Makes a Knife Good for Carving Wood?

If you want an enjoyable whittling experience, you will need a tool that gets the job done. There are a few factors to consider when buying a knife. 

A good knife consists of six things. These are the steel quality, blade design, edge grind, sharpness, blade thickness, and the comfort.

There is ‘no one knife is the best kind’ of principle. Each aspect of a knife gets designed for its purpose. Apart from that, it is also a personal preference. 

Quality Steel

The steel quality is how good the steel is on the blade. When discussing this factor, steel hardness is usually mentioned and is measured in Rockwell Hardness (HRC). The ideal steel hardness for whittling knives is between 58 and 62 HRC as it is the perfect balance where the steel isn’t too soft and looses its edge quickly and isn’t too hard where it becomes brittle

Usually the blades themselves are made with a high carbon steel like O1, W2, and 1080. When properly hardened, these create a durable cutting edge perfect for whittling.

Blade Design

There are different kinds of blades—for example, a curve blade or a straight edge blade. The blade design you choose is often a personal preference and may vary from the type of cut you are trying to make.

Keep in mind that the blades are designed for different uses. A pointy tip is easier to make small detail cuts in small carvings while longer and wider blades are great for removing large sections of wood.

Edge Design and Edge Grind

The overall cutting edge angle of the knife blade should be between 12 and 20 degrees. When the angle is larger than 20 degrees the knife will be harder to push through the wood. If this edge grind angel is too small, then you risk the cutting edge rolling or breaking while carving

Sharpness

This might speak for itself, but sharpness is a significant factor when it comes to having a good knife or a bad knife. The sharpness will determine how much pressure you have to put on the blade and how cleanly the blade slices through the wood.

Many of the quality make knives you buy are sharp when you get them, Like Flexcut, Beavercraft, Drake, Helvie and Deepwoods Ventures. If that is not the case or have you used your knife for a while, you will need to sharpen the knife using the right sharpening stones and honing sharp with a leather strop.

It does take some practice to sharpen the blades properly, but is an extremely important skill to learn.  To learn more about how to sharpen your wood carving knives, click here to see my knife sharpening tutorial.

Blade Thickness

Every knife will have blades with different thicknesses, and this can effect how well the blade slices through the wood. Thinner blades will glide easier through the wood while thicker blades may require more force to slice off the same chunk of wood.

However, if the blade is too thin the blade has a higher chance to flex or even break! Picking the right knife for you to use in different circumstances will require some hands on experience.

If you don’t have much experience with carving wood, then a thicker blade can work to your advantage. This is because if you make bad cuts or accidentally bend the blade in the wrong direction, it is less likely to break and will have a more durable edge.

Comfort

When we talk about comfort, we are talking about the handle design and how well it fits in your hands. When carving wood, you are probably going to be holding your knife for hours at a time and finding a knife that suits the palm of your hand is worth the search. 

The main difference between the handles is the shape and the thickness. If you have a smaller hand, you are more likely to want a handle that is not too thick while those with larger hands like myself will require a thicker handle.

If a knife is light or heavy, this will also make a difference in the comfort level. If your knife is heavy and you’re holding it for a while, you can imagine that your hand will get tired, making it harder to carve with precision. Some people like it when the knife is a bit heavier, so they have more control, but in the end his comes down to a personal preference. 

Best Carving Wood for Beginners

There are multiple different types of wood that many enjoy carving with like Pine, Basswood, and Butternut. Some woods are easier to carve than others and beginners will want to start with wood that is easier to work with.

The best woods for beginners to carve is Basswood and Pine as they are both easy to shape with just a knife and are easily found all over the world.

Basswood is the most common wood used for whittling by both beginners and experienced carvers. This is because the wood is soft enough to be easily carved with a simple knife while being hard enough to hold small details. Not only that, it has a fine woodgrain that is easy to work with and doesn’t split easily.

Pine is slightly softer than Basswood but can be just as easy to work with as basswood. The only real difference between the woods is that pine will sometimes have and inconsistent wood grain pattern that can throw off beginners. However, this wood is very easily found at local hardware stores and is very affordable.

For more great wood options, check out my complete list of the best woods to carve with by clicking the link below:
https://carvingisfun.com/best-wood-for-whittling-and-wood-carving/

Some Last Thoughts

As the saying goes, your knife should be an extension of you. This is not only because you are the one controlling it, but you are also the one picking the knife you wish to use for your own reasons.

Just about every knife will work for most people, but in the end only a handful are going to be ideal for your intended carving as you will have your own personal preferences on how the tools need to perform.

If you are ready to start whittling, feel free to check out my complete whittling guide for beginners by clicking the link below!
https://carvingisfun.com/whittling-guide/

The best ways to soften wood for carving is to hydrate the wood by either using an alcohol and water mixture or various oils already used for finishing woods. You can also soften the wood by soaking it in water or even by using freshly cut wood from the beginning.

Lets go over how each method works and other great options that you can do as well.

Alcohol Spray

The easiest and most common method that many carvers use to soften wood for carving is by using an alcohol and water spray. You can just keep the spray bottle next to your carving station and spray on the sections you need softened.

All you will need is a small spray bottle, rubbing alcohol, and water. You can simply use the 50% isopropyl alcohol mixture straight from the bottle like this one on Amazon or you can use the 70% or 99% versions and do a 50-50 mixture with water.

The reason why this works is because the rubbing alcohol reduces the surface tension of the water and allows the liquid to easily absorb into the wood.

If you just used water, it would sit on the surface of the wood and eventually evaporate. If you just used pure alcohol, it would evaporate and never absorb into the wood.

Soaking in Water

A super simple option that anyone can do is soaking the wood in water! While this takes longer for the wood to absorb the water than the water and alcohol version, it is a great way for an even distribution of moisture all over the wood.

To do this, all you will need is a container big enough to hold the wood and fill the container with enough water to completely submerge the wood. For best and more even results, apply a weight on the top and keep the wood completely submerged.

Check on the wood every 30 minutes and make sure the wood isn’t becoming too waterlogged and spongy. The wood should still be firm but moist. If you let it soak for too long, it will become waterlogged and may cause the wood to split when it dries.

After you are done carving, it will be best to wipe down your carving tools and apply a light oil coating to prevent any rusting that may occur if too much moisture is left on the tools.

Boiling in Water

An even faster way to hydrate the wood when compared to just simply soaking it is by boiling the wood in water. This method does have some major drawbacks, which we will go over below.

To do this, just simply bring water to boil with the wood already in it the water. It would be dangerous to add wood to the water while it is boiling as it could splash or overflow the pot.

Some downsides to this method, besides the obvious part of dealing with hot water, is that it is hard to test to see if the wood is properly soaked as you will be dealing with hot wood and that it could change the color of the wood.

This method is a decent option, but I would personally use any of the other steps in this list before boiling the wood.

Store in a Humid Environment

Proper wood storage can heavily effect how the wood will carve in the future. If the storage space is too dry, it runs the risk of making the wood even harder to carve!

Different regions of the world will have different options available to them but here are some great places to store your wood.

If you live in a humid or tropical environment, you could store the wood in a shed or your garage. Some people even store them under a tarp in their back yard. Otherwise, you could invest in a humidifier and have a wood storage room that is kept at around 60% to 70% relative humidity.

If your wood is stored in a very dry area with very low humidity around 20% to 40%, you run the risk of the wood loosing even more moisture and becoming dry.

Most processed carving wood will have between 5% and 15% moisture content, depending on how it was dried. The more you dry the wood, the tighter the wood fibers get and becomes a harder wood to carve!

You don’t want to store the wood in an environment that is too humid or wet as this will cause the wood to grow fungus and start to decompose.

Use Freshly Cut Wood

If you have the availability, sourcing freshly cut wood that contains the natural moisture from the tree is going to be the easiest way to ensure the wood is at its softest point for carving.

One of the best ways I have found to get a hold of freshly cut wood is to make friends with your local tree removal services as they will be able to find wood from a multitude of difference species both common and rare. I commonly see pictures from one of my friends who removes trees with beautiful wood that he himself turns into tables and furniture.

You can also collect wood from local parks and nature preserves if they do maintenance by clearing out downed trees on trails or roads. You can call up the park managers and see if they will let you know when they do some clearing.

I have even collected logs and thick branches on the side of the road in my neighborhood from people doing random yard work. I just stop by and throw what I want in the trunk, just don’t leave a mess and nobody will mind.

Use Air Dried Wood

For those of you who don’t have a local source of wood and have to resort to ordering in wood to carve, you can still find softer wood to carve as well!

When ordering wood, see if it is air dried instead of kiln dried for a more enjoyable carving experience. Air dried wood is dried over the course of months to years instead of rapidly dried in a kiln over the course of days.

This allows the wood to naturally dry and retain some natural moisture and prevent the wood fibers from binding up tighter, making the wood harder to carve.

There are only a handful of places that sell air dried basswood, most of them can be found on ebay, like this one here. Some other options that sell high quality, easy to carve basswood are some of the companies listed below:
https://treelineusa.com/basswood-practice-block-1/
https://heineckewood.com/block-wood
https://mdiwoodcarvers.com/products/medium-flat-rate-box-of-basswood

Apply Mineral Oil or Baby Oil

A common item that many people may have is mineral oil for their kitchens cutting block or baby oil. You can use mineral oil and baby oil to both soften the wood for carving and as a wood finisher at the end to help seal and protect your wood carving.

When using these oils to soften the wood, you may want to only apply to the sections you wish to carve at that time.

Apply liberally and allow 2-3 hours for the oil to soak into the wood. If the wood is dry, it will typically absorb the oil like a sponge and hydrate the wood.

Using mineral oil has the additional benefit of acting as a blade lubricant. So not only will you be able to cut into the wood easier, there will be less drag on the tool while cutting.

Apply WD-40

A very handy option that nearly every household may have available is using WD-40 to help soften wood for carving. Since WD-40 is mostly made of mineral oil and some solvents, which help it absorb quickly into the wood and allow for easy carving.

To use WD-40 to soften the wood you wish to carve, spray in the desired location you wish to carve and wait about a minute for the mixture to absorb into the wood.

If the wood is dry the wood will quickly absorb the WD-40, leaving a shiny surface. If the wood absorbs it really fast, within 10 seconds, apply once or twice more for an easier carving experience.

Even though one of the primary ingredients is mineral oil, this is not a food safe option and is only recommended for carvings that will be used as a display piece.

Also, keep the carvings away from an open fire source for several hours to a day until it has had the time for the fumes to disperse.

Odorless Paint Thinner

If you already plan on using a wood finish or wood sealer that requires the use of thinners, try using an odorless paint thinner to help soften the wood.

The thinner is primarily used to help promote absorption into the wood and can be quickly used to add some moisture into the wood. Just use the odorless options as they are typically less toxic and have fewer fumes.

To apply, just use a paintbrush to soak some of the thinner on to targeted sections of the wood to help soften it forcarving.

Before applying, there are two major drawbacks to be aware of. These thinners are chemicals that could be hazardous to your health if you use the wrong ones, so read the instructions. Using in a well ventilated area will help reduce breathing it in.

Also, the thinner could ruin the finish on your tools, so be mindful of getting it on your hands and tools.

Soak in Low Odor Kerosene

A really cool trick that I heard from one of my YouTube viewers is to use low odor kerosene to soften the wood. It absorbs quickly into the wood and lasts a long time.

To apply, simply use a paintbrush or rag to transfer the kerosene to the wood. If the wood is dry, it should absorb quickly.

It would also be wise to keep the wood away from an open flame until the fumes have dissipated. Also, use the odorless versions in a well ventilated area.

More Ways to Make Wood Easier to Carve

There are several other ways to make wood easier to carve that extend beyond softening the wood, check out the video below for more information!

if you want to find a different type of wood to carve, check out my list of the best woods for wood carving and whittling below!

You can carve with any wood you like but some woods like basswood and pine will be easier to work with and are ideal for beginners.

Below are some of my favorite woods to carve and various characteristics that you need to be aware of when carving them. The wood listed below will increase in hardness the further you go down with the exception of the first one as it is widely accepted to be the best option for wood carving.

We will be using Janka Hardness to compare the wood hardness of each of the species below, which is a globally accepted standard to test how hard a wood is to work with.

Basswood

Basswood, also known as linden wood and lime wood, is widely accepted to be the best wood for whittling and wood carving as it is soft enough to easily carve with hand tools, hard enough to hold small details, has a fine and uniform wood grain, and is widely available.

Carving with basswood will be the best option for beginners looking to get into whittling and wood carving as it doesn’t easily split, is commonly available, can easily be carved with basic tools like a pocket knife, and is affordable.

You can easily buy basswood from many different suppliers at a great price in varying sizes like this Premium Basswood Variety Pack from Amazon

Balsa Wood

Beginners who wish to start wood carving but feel intimidated by carving harder woods will often start carving with balsa wood as it is soft and very easy to carve with basic carving tools. I typically suggest using this wood for those who have never carved wood before and want to get the feel for doing subtractive sculpting before buying more expensive tools and supplies.

Carving with balsa wood is similar to carving a very dense sponge. It feels firm in the hands but can be easily dented and deformed if squeezed too hard or dropped. I have found the best way to carve balsa wood is to use a slicing motion with a knife as this limits the deformation imparted on the wood from just pushing the blade through.

Larger blocks of balsa wood can be harder to find since they are primarily sold in strips for other arts and crafts. You can find some really nice beginner kits like this one on Amazon that come with paint and finger tape to prevent cuts for a great price!

Eastern White Pine

If I’m looking for a large piece of wood to carve for a great price, I will typically head over to my local hardware store and pick up some of their premium pine boards. This wood is a little softer than basswood, does have some inconsistencies in density while carving through the darker sections, but is usually knot free.

The premium pine is much nicer quality and consistency than the regular lumber normally found at the hardware store, but does cost a little more. Just keep in mind that the wood grain can be a little inconsistent and wavy in some spots.

Cottonwood

If you can source it, cottonwood is a really nice alternative to basswood and carves quite easily. They won’t usually be found in processed boards or planks, but can usually be found sold online as cottonwood bark.

This wood is great for beginners as it is easy to carve, allows you to add nice details, and has a nice darker color compared to that of basswood. Since the wood has a little coarser wood grain, you will have to pay a little more attention to make sure you aren’t cutting against the wood grain.

The best place that I have found people selling cottonwood bark is on ebay, click here to see current listings.

Butternut

Butternut is one of those beautiful and easy to carve woods that I sometimes just gravitate towards. It is rich in color, carves beautifully, and results in a very satisfying carving.

My favorite thing to carve out of butternut are wooden spoons as they look wonderful and are easy to make! Many others like carving with the wood and is popular among chip carvers as well. The only thing you need to keep in mind is that the wood grain is a bit coarse and can split easily if you cut against the wood grain.

My favorite place to buy butternut spoon blanks is from Butternut Spoon Carver on Etsy, click here to go to his webshop.

Poplar

A very common wood that can easily be found is poplar as it is used in many applications like furniture and trim. You can easily find large planks of poplar in most hardware stores for a great price.

Poplar is noticeably harder to carve compared to basswood, but is still easy enough to do by hand. I personally prefer carving poplar over pine as it holds better detail and the wood grain is more consistent.

Tupelo

One of the most unique woods that I enjoy carving is tupelo as it is deceptively light but strong. This allows you to make carvings like flying birds without worrying about the weight of the wings causing the wood to break.

Carving tupelo is sometimes compared to carving dense butter. Even though it is a dense wood, it cuts very easily and I personally find it easy to work with. This wood is also popular among power carvers since it doesn’t splinter too easily. The only real downside is the limited availability, finding this wood locally may be hard to find unless you are in the South East United States.

Cherry

If you are looking for a durable wood for every day use items like cooking spoons, Cherry is an excellent option! It has a beautiful coloration, is durable, and can be carved by hand.

One thing you have to keep in mind while carving cherry is that is is a much harder wood than all the ones shown above. You will have to constantly hone your tools to make sure they stay sharp and make sure to make smaller controlled cuts to prevent fatigue and advanced tool wear.

My favorite place to buy cherry spoon blanks is from Butternut Spoon Carver on Etsy, click here to go to his webshop.

Walnut

The hardest wood that I would consider for carving anything by hand is walnut. This wood is at the limit of my personal hardness tolerance but the end result is so rewarding! The absolutely stunning dark color of the wood really comes to light when coated in a clear finish and makes for amazing cookware.

When carving, keep in mind how hard the wood is. You will need to take it slow and keep your tools honed every 15 to 20 minutes of use. Don’t push yourself too hard and keep in mind that you don’t have to finish in one sitting. It is common for me to spread the process of making a spoon out over 3-4 carving sessions.

My favorite place to buy walnut spoon blanks is from Butternut Spoon Carver on Etsy, click here to go to his webshop.

What Wood Should You Carve With?

If you are new to whittling and wood carving, the question is “what wood should you carve?”

Those new to whittling and wood carving should start carving basswood as it can easily be carved with hand tools and has a very uniform wood grain that is easy to carve with. Other great wood options for carving would be pine, butternut, and poplar.

More Whittling Tips!

If you are new to whittling and want to get started, check out my complete whittling resource page here:
https://carvingisfun.com/Whittling/

Balsa wood is perfect for beginners who want to start whittling or wood carving as it soft enough to carve with the most basic tools. Carving a softer wood like balsa wood is a great way to build a new carvers confidence and teach them the basics.

Once you start building up your confidence by carving with balsa wood, you may want to try carving with harder woods like basswood or butternut.

Is Balsa Wood Easy to Carve?

While Balsa wood is still considered a hardwood, it is the softest of its category with a Janka Hardness of 90. Comparing this to eastern white pines score of 380 and american basswoods 410, it is substantially easier to carve when compared to other popular carving woods.

There is one consideration to keep in mind when carving with balsa wood, because it is so soft it can easily deform. This will prevent you from adding intricate details and having long term durability that you will typically see in harder woods like basswood.

That being said, balsa wood is a great option for those of you who want to see what wood carving can be like or wish to introduce a younger child into whittling and wood carving.

Tips for carving with Balsa Wood

Since balsa wood is so soft, you have to handle the wood properly and know how to cut into the wood to allow for the most detail. Here are some of my must do tips for carving balsa wood:

• Carve simple designs. Simple shapes and designs go a long way with balsa wood as you won’t be able to create fine details that will last.
• Slice with the blade. Carving with balsa wood feels like cutting into a firm block of foam. If you simply press the blade in, it will deform the wood and then cut into it. Slicing allows for smoother, deeper, and less deformed cuts.
• Use thin knives. Since balsa wood is so malleable, thicker knives may cause more drag and make it harder to cleanly cut the wood. Use thin blades designed for whittling and wood carving like these Flexcut Carving Knives on Amazon.
• Use sharp blades. If you use a standard pocket knife with the manufacture edge, it probably won’t be sharp enough to create a clean. If at all possible use well sharpened, purpose made whittling knives for best results.

How does Balsa Wood Compare to Basswood?

While basswood (also known as lime wood or linden wood) is the next obvious step up from carving balsa wood, there are some notable differences that one needs to keep in mind.

Balsa wood has a slightly spongy texture to it, where that if you squeeze the wood or drop it on a hard surface it will start to deform. Basswood is more than 4 times harder than balsa wood and requires a much larger impact for deformations to occure.

Basswood is capable of holding finer details and are best for both small and larger designs. Balsa wood is not ideal for carvings smaller than 1″ tall as you will not be able to add much detail and may easily deform.

Basswood carving blocks are much more widely available than balsa wood blocks. Most balsa wood is sold in strips for creating models and is harder to find in carving block formats.

Where to Buy Balsa Wood For Carving

The majority of hobby stores or online stores only sell balsa wood in thin planks or very small blocks. I have only found one good source on Amazon that sells carving blocks big enough for whittling and wood carving. Click here to pick up a small variety pack for carving.

More Whittling Tips and Tricks!

If you are ready to start whittling and wood carving today, check out my complete resource page complete with beginners guides, tool guides, and project ideas by clicking the link below.
https://carvingisfun.com/Whittling/

Some quick and easy ways to make the wood you are using easier to carve by soaking it in water or spraying a 50/50 mixture of rubbing alcohol and water to the areas you are carving. Other ways to make wood easier to carve is to pick softer woods like air dried basswood, ensuring your carving tools have a narrower cutting edge angle, and keeping them honed while carving.

Lets go over each one of these options in more detail as well as a few more options to consider as well.

Soak Your Wood in Water

Sometimes you will end up with a super hard block of wood that has been sitting in the sun for a long time or has been kiln dried for a really long time.

The easiest way to make wood easier to carve is to soak it in a bucket of water for 30 minutes to a few hours to make it softer. Keep the wood completely submerged for an even soak and periodically check the wood softness every 30 to 60 minutes to make sure the wood isn’t too soft and waterlogged. If the wood is too soft, it will start deforming when cutting and won’t hold detail very well.

Keep in mind that when you are soaking the wood, it will start expanding. This can cause issues when the wood dries for two reasons; the wood may form cracks along the wood grain when it dries and the wood could start to warp or deform if too soft. To prevent this from happening, don’t soak the wood for too long but just enough to make it a little easier to carve.

Finally, since you will most likely be carving with high carbon steel tools, make sure to clean off the tools and oil them before placing them back in storage otherwise the blades may start to rust.

Spray Rubbing Alcohol on the Wood

If you want to quickly make a certain spot of wood easier to carve without soaking the whole block, you can spray a 50/50 mixture of water and rubbing alcohol on the wood your are carving.

Spraying wood with a 50/50 mixture of rubbing alcohol and water will allow the water to quickly penetrate the wood and make it easier to carve in seconds, resulting in an easier section of wood to carve. The rubbing alcohol greatly reduces the surface tension of the water so it can quickly absorb into the water and the added water prevents the rubbing alcohol from evaporating too fast.

This is a great and easy way to only soften the spots you want to carve to prevent cracking and over saturation. Just keep a small spray bottle with you and spray it as needed.

Carve Green Wood

Wood is easiest to carve when it is freshly cut from the tree, which is commonly referred to as green wood. By carving green wood, you have the advantage of the wood containing its natural moisture, evenly distributed throughout the wood.

This makes it easier to carve some of the most popular woods into shapes and utensils that become much harder when dried, making them more durable for every day use.

One of the disadvantages of carving green wood is that when it dries out, the wood will shrink and possibly warp or crack. Even experienced wood carvers have to occasionally scrap some of their projects due to defects from the drying process, which can take weeks or months.

Carve Air Dried Wood

For most of us, dried wood will be the only carving wood we will have easy access too. However, not all wood is the same, even within the same species of wood!

Air dried wood is usually much easier to carve than kiln dried wood as the wood is dried at a much slower pace, allowing the wood fibers to naturally settle and will usually have a slightly higher moisture content.

Most wood you will find for sale is kiln dried wood, this is because it is a much faster way to process and prep wood for sale. Air dried wood can take 1 month to a year to properly dry while kiln dried can be just a few days.

You can find some air dried wood in some specialty shops or from other carving enthusiasts from online marketplaces like ebay, click here to check out ebay for some great options.

Pick Wood With a Fine and Even Grain

One of the key factors that can influence how your knife behaves in the wood is the direction of the wood grain. If you don’t know the direction of the grain, it can make things a lot more difficult to carve.

Carving wood with a straight and fine wood grain will make your overall carving experience easier as you will be able to keep track of the direction of the wood grain to prevent accidentally splitting the wood and ruining your project.

One of the best wood options for carvers is basswood (also called lime or linden wood) as it has a fine and uniform wood grain that is easy to keep track of, is soft enough to easily carve with hand tools, and is hard enough to hold fine details.

Hone Your Tools Every 30 Minutes

While your are carving, your knives and tools will slowly start to dull and will need to be sharpened again before they can safely cut through wood again. Maintaining your cutting edge is essential to any carver, especially while carving.

While carving wood, it is important to hone the cutting edge of the knives and tools you are carving with every 20 to 30 minutes. This will keep the edge razor sharp and allow you to continue carving without dulling your knife.

All you will need to hone your knife is a leather strop and stropping compound. Just hone the blade 15 to 20 times per side to help keep the edge sharp. For more information, check out my knife sharpening instructions here: https://carvingisfun.com/sharpening-a-knfie/

Use Thinner Knives and Tools

In addition to having a sharp wood carving knife, the thickness and cutting edge angle play a large factor in how easily the tool will cut into the wood.

The ideal wood carving knife cutting edge angle is between 12 and 20 degrees, inclusively, as this reduces the drag on the knife while slicing through wood and will usually result in a thinner knife.

Most higher end wood carving knives will have a thin blade and a cutting edge angle between 12 and 20 degrees. Some of the knives with edge angles on the smaller side will usually have a micro bevel to provide some edge retention.

Secure Your Carving With a Vice

If you are working on a carving that is just too big to hold by hand but isn’t heavy enough to stay in place, securing it in a vice will allow you safely secure the wood so that you can focus on carving and not worry about the piece moving around.

This is especially helpful you need both hands to better control the carving tool or want to apply more power to your cuts.

Use a Mallet

Sometimes you wish to remove a large section of wood and carving by hand can be really slow. But if you have the right mallet and chisels on hand, you can quickly remove wood and speed up your overall carving time.

Wood carving chisels can be used with a mallet to apply controlled force behind your cuts that allow you to quickly and easily remove wood with precision.

This method also has the added benefit of not wearing out your hands and wrists from constantly pushing the tools by hand. With some practice, this can be a very effective way to carve.

Use Power Carvers

If you want to quickly and easily remove wood, power carvers are one of the best options available.

Carving with power carvers is one of the fastest ways to carve wood. They use specialized wood carving burs on a rotary tool that can quickly grind away at the wood to create smooth and intricate details that may be hard to accomplish with simple hand tools.

You can use a simple Dremel and wood carving burs to get started, or use higher end power carving systems for a better experience.

Plan Your Carvings Ahead of Time

All of these tips above will account for nothing if you don’t plan what you are going to carve ahead of time. Without a known goal or target shape in mind ahead of time, you could face difficulties making the first cuts.

You can use many different methods to plan your carvings ahead of time, many beginners use templates and tutorials to help visualize what they are carving, some more experienced carvers may draw their own references from multiple angles to pre visualize what they want to accomplish.

Keep a pencil on hand so you can make reference marks on the wood to help you carve. This is especially helpful as it helps you keep track of where your next cuts need to be.

What Options Should You Pick?

If you are a beginner, you may want some quick and easy ways to help you along with your first wood carving.

By far, the simplest and most practical ways to make wood easier to carve is to soak the wood, spray them with a 50/50 rubbing alcohol mixture, keeping your tools sharp, and planning your carving ahead of time. By utilizing these tactics, you can make your current carving project easier without having to buy new tools or supplies.